As 2019 draws to a close, I have been reflecting on some of the dining-out experiences we enjoyed during the past year. Knoxville has a great food scene that seems to be getting better all the time.
Emilia, Chef Matt Gallagher's Italian bistro on Market Square, appears to be in something of a rut. Perhaps this is because Chef Matt has been pre-occupied with opening the new, larger incarnation of Knox Mason. The much-anticipated venue is located inside Hyatt Place, the old Farragut Hotel to long time residents. We are looking forward to a visit in the New Year. Meanwhile, the menu at Emilia has not changed perceptibly in months and months, although the place was packed when we visited on a Friday evening. My fusilli carbonara was uninspiring, but the meatballs on polenta were delicious. Even the simple grilled focaccia with ricotta and Georgia olive oil was not as good as I had remembered. The menu definitely needs some revisions.
Rebel Kitchen, on the other hand, has our vote for downtown's best upscale dining. Chef Preston Williams combines creativity and the best local and regional ingredients. A small plate of grilled sea scallops has by now disappeared from the menu. We can all hope it returns soon, as the scallops were perfectly cooked and deliciously sauced. The signature "striploin" of beef was superbly flavorful and also perfectly cooked. Our waiter was especially helpful in choosing a wine from the extensive selection. Rebel Kitchen is located next door to the Old City Wine Bar on Jackson Avenue. Small plates served in the wine bar are prepared by Chef Williams.
Chef Joseph Lenn's locally focused JC Holdway continues to delight us, even though the portions were so generous as to be unwieldy. We will remember next time to share the Sunburst Farms trout. It arrived as the whole grilled fish, with grit-crusted potatoes. Having just enjoyed the small plate of charred shrimp on Anson Mill grits with seafood emulsion and pickled tomatoes, the fish was almost more than one could manage. Most dishes are cooked on the wood-fired grill. Freshly baked cornbread comes in its own cast iron skillet.
New restaurants are opening in downtown, the Old City, and along the Central Avenue corridor. We look forward to reviewing them in the coming year.
Sunday, December 15, 2019
Thursday, December 5, 2019
Dessert of Christmas Past
Nostalgia always seems fashionable at Christmastime. Here is a dessert that I first had in the 1950s. It was a specialty of my Aunt Juanita Tullock. She often made it for us to enjoy after dinner on Christmas Eve. Simple, light, and delicious, this dish would make a fine ending for any holiday meal. Because chilling is required, it can be done hours in advance, ideal when you are having guests and a million things to do to get ready.
The key to success lies in the double boiler technique. You want the bowl with the eggs sitting over, but not in, simmering water. If the water touches the bottom of the bowl, the eggs will curdle before the custard thickens. Apart from that, the recipe is foolproof. It can also be doubled successfully, if you have a crowd.
Aunt Juanita's Fluffy Boiled Custard
4 servings
6 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 tablespoons whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
In the top of a double boiler or other suitable heatproof bowl, beat the egg yolks. Add the sugar and milk and mix well to combine. Place the egg mixture over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla extract, and allow to cool for 10 minutes. While the custard cools, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the custard. Refrigerate until chilled, and serve cold.
The key to success lies in the double boiler technique. You want the bowl with the eggs sitting over, but not in, simmering water. If the water touches the bottom of the bowl, the eggs will curdle before the custard thickens. Apart from that, the recipe is foolproof. It can also be doubled successfully, if you have a crowd.
Aunt Juanita's Fluffy Boiled Custard
4 servings
6 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 tablespoons whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
In the top of a double boiler or other suitable heatproof bowl, beat the egg yolks. Add the sugar and milk and mix well to combine. Place the egg mixture over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla extract, and allow to cool for 10 minutes. While the custard cools, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the custard. Refrigerate until chilled, and serve cold.
Sunday, November 24, 2019
Three Rivers Is Back
After more than a decade off the grocery shelves, Three Rivers Cornbread Mix has returned, and cooks all over East Tennessee are celebrating. Folks of a certain age remember Three Rivers as the cornbread mix their mothers and grandmothers used.
Three Rivers was originally a product of White Lily Foods, a milling company that J. Allen Smith brought to Knoxville in 1873. The "three rivers" epithet refers to Knoxville's location near the confluence of the Holston and French Broad, which forms the Tennessee River.
In 2008, White Lily was purchased by Smucker's. They closed the Knoxville plant, but continued to produce the White Lily brand in two other mills in the Southeast. White Lily is made only from Southern soft summer wheat. This wheat has less protein and more starch than other varieties, and consequently has the ability to absorb more liquid or fat when used in a recipe. It therefore makes the flakiest biscuits and pie crusts imaginable.
The Three Rivers brand did not survive the transition to Smucker's initially. White Lily started making its own brand of cornbread mix. The mix was passable, but not at all like Three Rivers. Three Rivers has a higher proportion of cornmeal to wheat flour, and the cornmeal is more finely ground than in White Lily. The taste is different, also, with Three Rivers having a richer "corn" flavor.
Recently, the Three Rivers brand returned, making its way to Food City stores from a White Lily Foods distribution center in Jackson, Tennessee. A little searching revealed that Ingle's, a regional chain from Asheville, NC, has also begun carrying Three Rivers.
If you want to experience what cornbread is supposed to taste like, pick up a bag of Three Rivers, and use the following recipe:
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Grease a 9-inch cast iron skillet with oil or bacon drippings and place it in the oven. It needs to be smoking hot when you pour in the cornbread batter.
Put 2 cups of Three Rivers in a large bowl. In a second bowl, combine one egg, 1/4 cup oil, and 1 cup of whole milk. Make a well in the meal, and pour in the liquids all at once. Stir until combined, adding a little more milk if needed to make a thick, pourable batter.
Carefully remove the skillet from the oven. Pour in the batter; it should sizzle. Return the skillet to the oven and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the sides have pulled away from the skillet. Cut into wedges and serve at once with plenty of butter.
Three Rivers was originally a product of White Lily Foods, a milling company that J. Allen Smith brought to Knoxville in 1873. The "three rivers" epithet refers to Knoxville's location near the confluence of the Holston and French Broad, which forms the Tennessee River.
In 2008, White Lily was purchased by Smucker's. They closed the Knoxville plant, but continued to produce the White Lily brand in two other mills in the Southeast. White Lily is made only from Southern soft summer wheat. This wheat has less protein and more starch than other varieties, and consequently has the ability to absorb more liquid or fat when used in a recipe. It therefore makes the flakiest biscuits and pie crusts imaginable.
The Three Rivers brand did not survive the transition to Smucker's initially. White Lily started making its own brand of cornbread mix. The mix was passable, but not at all like Three Rivers. Three Rivers has a higher proportion of cornmeal to wheat flour, and the cornmeal is more finely ground than in White Lily. The taste is different, also, with Three Rivers having a richer "corn" flavor.
Recently, the Three Rivers brand returned, making its way to Food City stores from a White Lily Foods distribution center in Jackson, Tennessee. A little searching revealed that Ingle's, a regional chain from Asheville, NC, has also begun carrying Three Rivers.
If you want to experience what cornbread is supposed to taste like, pick up a bag of Three Rivers, and use the following recipe:
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Grease a 9-inch cast iron skillet with oil or bacon drippings and place it in the oven. It needs to be smoking hot when you pour in the cornbread batter.
Put 2 cups of Three Rivers in a large bowl. In a second bowl, combine one egg, 1/4 cup oil, and 1 cup of whole milk. Make a well in the meal, and pour in the liquids all at once. Stir until combined, adding a little more milk if needed to make a thick, pourable batter.
Carefully remove the skillet from the oven. Pour in the batter; it should sizzle. Return the skillet to the oven and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the sides have pulled away from the skillet. Cut into wedges and serve at once with plenty of butter.
Thursday, November 14, 2019
The Relish Tray
I see that charcuterie and cheese boards are all the rage this season, and I am reminded of the old Southern tradition of serving a "relish tray" as part of a special occasion meal. Along with deviled eggs, a glass plate with a variety of colorful, crunchy homemade pickles was a regular feature of family holiday dinners when I was growing up.
You can always purchase pickles at the grocery store, but making your own is pretty simple. You can make homemade pickles now, and keep them in the refrigerator until Christmas or New Year's Eve. If you make a batch today, they will even be ready in time for Thanksgiving dinner.
Always select the prettiest, most nearly perfect produce for making pickles. Carefully wash and trim the vegetables and cut them into bite size pieces. Good choices include cucumbers, carrots, cauliflower, celery, asparagus, turnips, squash (summer and winter), beets, parsnips, bell peppers and tomatoes. You can also make pickles out of berries and other fruits, although the procedure is a little different than the one for vegetables.
Wash and rinse a canning jar and place it in a warm oven to stay hot. Combine a cup of water and a cup of white vinegar with a tablespoon of salt in a small saucepan. Set the pan over medium heat, adding your choice of whole spices. Use any combination of mustard seeds, coriander, cloves, cinnamon stick, allspice berries, bay leaves and peppercorns. You need a teaspoon of spices for each pint of pickling liquid. You can also add garlic, hot peppers, and/or dill seeds or a dill head to a jar of pickles. Add them with the vegetables, rather than steeping them in the pickling liquid.
Bring the liquid to a simmer and allow it to bubble gently for 10 minutes while you pack the vegetables and flavorings into the hot jar. Pour the hot liquid over the contents of the jar. Allow it to sit for a moment to release air bubbles, or use a bamboo skewer to free air bubbles from the sides of the jar. Apply and lid and allow the jar to cool to room temperature. Place the jar in the refrigerator and wait a week before enjoying the pickles.
To pickle fruits or tomatoes, allow the pickling liquid to cool before pouring it over the contents of a room temperature jar. This works with whole berries, peeled and seeded tomato quarters, cherries, and stone fruits. Add a teaspoon of sugar to the pickling liquid for added sweetness, if you prefer.
Use an assortment of homemade pickles to create a colorful, traditional relish tray for your holiday table.
You can always purchase pickles at the grocery store, but making your own is pretty simple. You can make homemade pickles now, and keep them in the refrigerator until Christmas or New Year's Eve. If you make a batch today, they will even be ready in time for Thanksgiving dinner.
Always select the prettiest, most nearly perfect produce for making pickles. Carefully wash and trim the vegetables and cut them into bite size pieces. Good choices include cucumbers, carrots, cauliflower, celery, asparagus, turnips, squash (summer and winter), beets, parsnips, bell peppers and tomatoes. You can also make pickles out of berries and other fruits, although the procedure is a little different than the one for vegetables.
Wash and rinse a canning jar and place it in a warm oven to stay hot. Combine a cup of water and a cup of white vinegar with a tablespoon of salt in a small saucepan. Set the pan over medium heat, adding your choice of whole spices. Use any combination of mustard seeds, coriander, cloves, cinnamon stick, allspice berries, bay leaves and peppercorns. You need a teaspoon of spices for each pint of pickling liquid. You can also add garlic, hot peppers, and/or dill seeds or a dill head to a jar of pickles. Add them with the vegetables, rather than steeping them in the pickling liquid.
Bring the liquid to a simmer and allow it to bubble gently for 10 minutes while you pack the vegetables and flavorings into the hot jar. Pour the hot liquid over the contents of the jar. Allow it to sit for a moment to release air bubbles, or use a bamboo skewer to free air bubbles from the sides of the jar. Apply and lid and allow the jar to cool to room temperature. Place the jar in the refrigerator and wait a week before enjoying the pickles.
To pickle fruits or tomatoes, allow the pickling liquid to cool before pouring it over the contents of a room temperature jar. This works with whole berries, peeled and seeded tomato quarters, cherries, and stone fruits. Add a teaspoon of sugar to the pickling liquid for added sweetness, if you prefer.
Use an assortment of homemade pickles to create a colorful, traditional relish tray for your holiday table.
Saturday, November 2, 2019
Shrimp and Grits
Here is a recipe that you can multiply at will for holiday entertaining. Like many good restaurant dishes, the secret to this one is advance preparation. Everything can be made ahead and kept warm, with the shrimp being grilled at the last minute.
I have shamelessly stolen the idea for this dish from one of Knoxville’s best restaurants, JC Holdway, located on Union Avenue.
If you are accustomed to the shrimp and grits, often featuring a heavy cheese sauce, that are offered up by chain restaurants, you are in for a treat. Adding cheese is anathema in the South Carolina Low Country where shrimp and grits likely originated. While this version differs from the traditional recipe, it nevertheless captures the richness of the original. The recipe seems complicated, but with a little prep, it comes together quickly.
2 servings, easily multiplied
6 large shrimp, unpeeled
For the shrimp stock reduction:
1 tablespoon chopped onion
¼ cup chopped celery with leaves
Seasoning mix:
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon salt
For the grits:
1 cup yellow corn grits (I used Yelton’s)
1 ½ cups water
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
For the seafood hollandaise sauce:
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons shrimp stock reduction
¼ cup butter, in pats
1 teaspoon basil vinegar or lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving the tail segment intact and reserving the shells. Place the peeled shrimp on a plate and keep refrigerated.
In a small saucepan combine the reserved shrimp shells, the onion and the celery. Add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer gently 1 hour. Strain the shrimp stock through a fine sieve, discarding the solids, and return it to the pan. Over gentle heat, reduce the stock to 2 tablespoons. Watch carefully as it reduces to prevent burning. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Measure the cooled reduction carefully. If you have less than two tablespoons, add water.
Combine the seasoning mix ingredients in a small bowl. Reserve.
Bring 1 ½ cups water and ½ teaspoon of salt to boil in a large saucepan. Add the grits, stirring well. Immediately reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
In the top of a double boiler, place the egg yolks and shrimp stock reduction. Set the top over the bottom half, which should have 2-3 inches of water. Water should not touch the top half, or the eggs will curdle. Turn on the heat and bring the water to a boil, whisking. Adjust the heat so the water just simmers, and continue to whisk until the mixture thickens. Add the butter, one pat at a time, whisking to incorporate before adding another pat. Remove the top half of the boiler and whisk in the vinegar (or lemon juice) and white pepper. Keep the sauce warm.
To finish the dish, spray a grill pan with cooking spray and place it over medium-high heat. Take the shrimp out of the refrigerator, sprinkle them with the seasoning mix, using as much or as little as you prefer, and place them on the hot pan. When the bottom side begins to turn opaque, flip the shrimp with tongs and cook them on the other side. Three or four minutes should be sufficient, depending upon the size of the shrimp.
Place a dollop of grits on a heated plate. Set three of the grilled shrimp on top of the grits. Surround the grits with hollandaise sauce.
Notes: Chef Joseph Lenn at JC Holdway garnishes this dish with pickled tomatoes and microgreens. I happened to have pickled tomatoes I made last summer, but you could also use a dollop of salsa, or some canned tomatoes spiked up with a little vinegar and spices. Garnish with any fresh herb you happen to have. I used parsley, but tarragon or chives, both in season here in autumn, would also be good. Look for "stone ground" yellow corn grits. Several small suppliers in North Carolina make excellent products. Yelton's is my favorite, but use whatever good quality grits you have available.
Here in Tennessee, frozen seafood is usually better than "fresh" which is typically frozen seafood thawed by the store. I buy raw, unpeeled wild harvested North Carolina shrimp. It comes individually frozen in bags. I divide up a bag among smaller containers so I have shrimp in the freezer whenever I want it.
Tuesday, October 15, 2019
Fall Means Pear Season
As East Tennessee begins to feel some relief from summer heat, and the trees start to take on their autumn colors, produce bins fill with pears. Early arrivals are Bartlett, Red Bartlett, and Bosc (my favorite). Later, we will see Comice, and perhaps a few others.
In search of a good, easy recipe for pears, I found this one. I have tested it and made a few tweaks. If you want to read the original recipe, I have posted a link at the end.
This crust-less custard pie could not be simpler. Most of the prep time involves peeling and slicing the pears. You can use any suitable baking dish or pan for this pie, but you will need to adjust the baking time. I made the recipe in a 9-inch, well-seasoned cast iron skillet.
I always choose slightly under-ripe pears, as they tolerate shipping best. Place them in a basket on your kitchen counter and add a banana or two to help them ripen. They are perfect for this recipe when the "neck" yields slightly to gentle pressure.
Crust-less Pear Custard Pie
Makes one 9-inch pie.
Cooking spray
4 pears, firm ripe, any variety
3/4 cup whole milk
3 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted and slightly cooled
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat a 9-inch cast iron skillet with cooking spray.
Peel, core and slice the pears lengthwise, arranging the slices in the prepared skillet as you go.
Combine the remaining ingredients, in the order given, in the jar of a blender or the bowl of a food processor. Turn on the machine and process until smooth, about 15 seconds. Pour the batter over the pears.
Bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before serving.
Garnish with flavored sugar, powdered sugar, chopped fresh mint, or bits of candied or dried pear.
The original recipe and blog post can be found here.
In search of a good, easy recipe for pears, I found this one. I have tested it and made a few tweaks. If you want to read the original recipe, I have posted a link at the end.
This crust-less custard pie could not be simpler. Most of the prep time involves peeling and slicing the pears. You can use any suitable baking dish or pan for this pie, but you will need to adjust the baking time. I made the recipe in a 9-inch, well-seasoned cast iron skillet.
I always choose slightly under-ripe pears, as they tolerate shipping best. Place them in a basket on your kitchen counter and add a banana or two to help them ripen. They are perfect for this recipe when the "neck" yields slightly to gentle pressure.
Crust-less Pear Custard Pie
Makes one 9-inch pie.
Cooking spray
4 pears, firm ripe, any variety
3/4 cup whole milk
3 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted and slightly cooled
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat a 9-inch cast iron skillet with cooking spray.
Peel, core and slice the pears lengthwise, arranging the slices in the prepared skillet as you go.
Combine the remaining ingredients, in the order given, in the jar of a blender or the bowl of a food processor. Turn on the machine and process until smooth, about 15 seconds. Pour the batter over the pears.
Bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before serving.
Garnish with flavored sugar, powdered sugar, chopped fresh mint, or bits of candied or dried pear.
The original recipe and blog post can be found here.
Wednesday, October 9, 2019
New Book Released
My newest book, Succulents At Home, has been released this week. It's a comprehensive guide to getting started with succulent houseplants, and has tons of photos from Stanley's Greenhouse and UT.
You can check it out on Amazon, or wherever books are sold.
You can check it out on Amazon, or wherever books are sold.
Friday, September 20, 2019
Easy Late Summer Fish Provencal
Late summer brings new growth from tarragon and basil plants that were sheared earlier in the season. Here, I combine them with other summer flavors to create Fish Provencal. Feel free to tinker with the amounts of herbs and other flavorings as you see fit. I purchase frozen fish, which must be thawed before cooking. To thaw, remove all packaging and place fish in a zipper bag. Immerse the bag in a bowl of cold tap water in the sink. Turn on the tap and let it drizzle into the bowl, overflowing to the sink. Fish should thaw completely in 30 minutes.
Fish Provencal
2 Servings
vegetable oil or cooking spray
2 wild flounder filets
1 medium ripe tomato, cored
1 shallot, peeled
1 lemon
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat the inside of a foil-lined baking pan with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Place the flounder filets in the pan. Slice the tomato and arrange the slices on the fish. Slice the shallots crosswise and scatter the slices over the tomatoes. Slice four slices from the center of the lemon and remove all seeds. Place two slices on each fish filet. Squeeze the juice from one half of the lemon over the fish. Cut the other half of the lemon into two pieces and reserve to garnish the finished dish. Scatter the tarragon, basil, and half the parsley over the fish. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Take care not to overcook.
Transfer the fish to heated serving plates, sprinkle the remaining fresh parsley over, and garnish with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.
A green salad, a glass of wine and good bread make this a complete meal.
Fish Provencal
2 Servings
vegetable oil or cooking spray
2 wild flounder filets
1 medium ripe tomato, cored
1 shallot, peeled
1 lemon
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat the inside of a foil-lined baking pan with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Place the flounder filets in the pan. Slice the tomato and arrange the slices on the fish. Slice the shallots crosswise and scatter the slices over the tomatoes. Slice four slices from the center of the lemon and remove all seeds. Place two slices on each fish filet. Squeeze the juice from one half of the lemon over the fish. Cut the other half of the lemon into two pieces and reserve to garnish the finished dish. Scatter the tarragon, basil, and half the parsley over the fish. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Take care not to overcook.
Transfer the fish to heated serving plates, sprinkle the remaining fresh parsley over, and garnish with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.
A green salad, a glass of wine and good bread make this a complete meal.
Wednesday, September 18, 2019
Native Plants for Shade
Here is the link to a downloadable PDF of my presentation, "Native Plants for Shade," which took place at UT Gardens on September 29, 2019.
Thursday, August 22, 2019
August Abundance
My most recent book, Succulents At Home, will begin shipping on October 8. Reserve your copy here.
August brings an abundance of not only tomatoes, but of peaches, sweet corn, squash and cucumbers. Unfortunately, hot weather in some places drastically reduces the cucurbit crops, as pollen dies when the temperature soars above 90 degrees. Fruit and vine borers are also more abundant this time of year. Therefore, head to the farmer's market for the best the season has to offer.
Asian pears are in season in Tennessee during August, and the recipe I am sharing makes good use of them, along with arugula. You could substitute any other salad green for the arugula, but it does play very well with peanuts.
Consider this recipe a sneak preview of my newest book, Grow Food At Home, which is coming out in 2020.
Arugula Salad with Thai-Inspired Dressing
The fat-free dressing makes this salad extra-light, ideal as the prelude to a summer supper. Another pear can be substituted, or try this recipe with fresh peaches.
Serves 2, easily doubled
2 cups loosely packed arugula leaves, rinsed and spun dry
1 small Asian pear
Juice of 2 limes
2 cloves garlic
1 cube of crystallized ginger, about ½ inch on a side
8 fresh mint leaves
1 ½ teaspoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Arrange half of the arugula on each of two chilled serving plates. Core the pear, slice it in half top to bottom, and cut each half into wedges, arranging them on the arugula. Combine the lime juice, garlic, ginger, mint, sugar and soy sauce in the jar of a blender and liquefy. Pour the dressing over the arugula and pear, using about half of it, and garnish the plate with the chopped peanuts. Serve at once.
My most recent book, Succulents At Home, will begin shipping on October 8. Reserve your copy here.
August brings an abundance of not only tomatoes, but of peaches, sweet corn, squash and cucumbers. Unfortunately, hot weather in some places drastically reduces the cucurbit crops, as pollen dies when the temperature soars above 90 degrees. Fruit and vine borers are also more abundant this time of year. Therefore, head to the farmer's market for the best the season has to offer.
Asian pears are in season in Tennessee during August, and the recipe I am sharing makes good use of them, along with arugula. You could substitute any other salad green for the arugula, but it does play very well with peanuts.
Consider this recipe a sneak preview of my newest book, Grow Food At Home, which is coming out in 2020.
Arugula Salad with Thai-Inspired Dressing
The fat-free dressing makes this salad extra-light, ideal as the prelude to a summer supper. Another pear can be substituted, or try this recipe with fresh peaches.
Serves 2, easily doubled
2 cups loosely packed arugula leaves, rinsed and spun dry
1 small Asian pear
Juice of 2 limes
2 cloves garlic
1 cube of crystallized ginger, about ½ inch on a side
8 fresh mint leaves
1 ½ teaspoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Arrange half of the arugula on each of two chilled serving plates. Core the pear, slice it in half top to bottom, and cut each half into wedges, arranging them on the arugula. Combine the lime juice, garlic, ginger, mint, sugar and soy sauce in the jar of a blender and liquefy. Pour the dressing over the arugula and pear, using about half of it, and garnish the plate with the chopped peanuts. Serve at once.
My most recent book, Succulents At Home, will begin shipping on October 8. Reserve your copy here.
Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Tomato Season Has Arrived!
Most gardeners around here grow tomatoes, and now is the time when the avalanche begins. While some of the heirlooms may not begin bearing until August, depending upon when they were planted, virtually all of the cherry tomatoes and hybrid varieties that were transplanted in May are laden with ripe, juicy fruits.
Here are some ideas for using them in the kitchen. Don't forget, if you run out of ideas, just drop whole or quartered tomatoes into freezer containers and freeze them. After thawing later, the skins will slip off and you can use the tomatoes in soup, stew or sauce.
For a fresh summer pizza, brush dough with olive oil, spread lightly with ricotta, and top with thinly sliced tomatoes. Garnish with fresh basil leaves and bake. You can add any other toppings of your choice. Also try fresh thyme sprigs in addition to, or in place of, the basil leaves.
Treat company or your family to my stuffed summer squash with white beans and tomatoes.
Another great way to enjoy tomatoes is in an old-fashioned tomato pie. You can find numerous recipes online, but all you really need is the basic concept, some fresh tomatoes, and staples found in most pantries. Line a tart pan, pie dish or springform pan with your favorite pastry dough. Brush the dough with olive oil, prick it in several places, and cover the bottom with parchment. Add pie weights or dry beans to keep the dough from puffing up, then blind bake in a 375-400 degree oven until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Remove weights and parchment.
Depending upon the baking container you have chosen, you will need varying amounts of tomato slices, cheese and custard. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 cup of half and half for each egg.
When the crust is ready sprinkle the bottom with grated cheese, such as parmesan or Gruyere, and then place a layer of tomato slices on top. Sprinkle with bits of fresh basil. Repeat until you have filled the crust, allowing about half an inch at the top for the filling to expand. Combine beaten eggs with half and half, season with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomato and cheese layers. Bake at 350 degrees until the custard is set and has a few brown spots on top. Remove from the oven and cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
This is basically a quiche with tomatoes, and you can add other ingredients, such as capers, olives, toasted nuts, or bits of cooked ham or bacon, as you see fit. If your tomatoes are juicy, salt the slices lightly and allow them to drain thoroughly on paper towels before assembling the pie.
Store leftovers in the refrigerator.
Here are some ideas for using them in the kitchen. Don't forget, if you run out of ideas, just drop whole or quartered tomatoes into freezer containers and freeze them. After thawing later, the skins will slip off and you can use the tomatoes in soup, stew or sauce.
For a fresh summer pizza, brush dough with olive oil, spread lightly with ricotta, and top with thinly sliced tomatoes. Garnish with fresh basil leaves and bake. You can add any other toppings of your choice. Also try fresh thyme sprigs in addition to, or in place of, the basil leaves.
Treat company or your family to my stuffed summer squash with white beans and tomatoes.
Another great way to enjoy tomatoes is in an old-fashioned tomato pie. You can find numerous recipes online, but all you really need is the basic concept, some fresh tomatoes, and staples found in most pantries. Line a tart pan, pie dish or springform pan with your favorite pastry dough. Brush the dough with olive oil, prick it in several places, and cover the bottom with parchment. Add pie weights or dry beans to keep the dough from puffing up, then blind bake in a 375-400 degree oven until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Remove weights and parchment.
Depending upon the baking container you have chosen, you will need varying amounts of tomato slices, cheese and custard. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 cup of half and half for each egg.
When the crust is ready sprinkle the bottom with grated cheese, such as parmesan or Gruyere, and then place a layer of tomato slices on top. Sprinkle with bits of fresh basil. Repeat until you have filled the crust, allowing about half an inch at the top for the filling to expand. Combine beaten eggs with half and half, season with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomato and cheese layers. Bake at 350 degrees until the custard is set and has a few brown spots on top. Remove from the oven and cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
This is basically a quiche with tomatoes, and you can add other ingredients, such as capers, olives, toasted nuts, or bits of cooked ham or bacon, as you see fit. If your tomatoes are juicy, salt the slices lightly and allow them to drain thoroughly on paper towels before assembling the pie.
Store leftovers in the refrigerator.
Tuesday, June 25, 2019
Try This Summertime Combination
Ah, summertime! Among the many pleasures of the summer months is the arrival of peaches, which are just now making their debut from South Carolina. Local peaches will arrive in late July.
One of my favorite ways to enjoy fresh peaches is to grill them and then serve them with vanilla ice cream and basil syrup. Yes, basil syrup. The flavors of sweet summer herbs like basil, lemon balm, lemon verbena, mint and lavender pair beautifully with summer stone fruits.
To flavor a syrup with any fresh herb, collect a packed cup of the leaves of your herb of choice. Combine one cup of water and one cup of sugar with a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for one minute. Remove from the heat and allow to sit one minute. Stir in the herb leaves. Allow the syrup and leaves to cool to room temperature, then puree in a blender. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve and store it covered in the refrigerator.
That's all there is to it. Serve your herb syrup with any fresh fruit or a combination.
One of my favorite ways to enjoy fresh peaches is to grill them and then serve them with vanilla ice cream and basil syrup. Yes, basil syrup. The flavors of sweet summer herbs like basil, lemon balm, lemon verbena, mint and lavender pair beautifully with summer stone fruits.
To flavor a syrup with any fresh herb, collect a packed cup of the leaves of your herb of choice. Combine one cup of water and one cup of sugar with a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for one minute. Remove from the heat and allow to sit one minute. Stir in the herb leaves. Allow the syrup and leaves to cool to room temperature, then puree in a blender. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve and store it covered in the refrigerator.
That's all there is to it. Serve your herb syrup with any fresh fruit or a combination.
Saturday, June 8, 2019
Pea Picking Time
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| Green Arrow makes huge pods. |
Instead of installing a trellis, I plant pea seeds in a circle about one foot in diameter at the base of a large galvanized wire tomato cage. (The inverted cone type from the big-box store.) Training the plants on the cages is easy, and two such plantings will provide plenty of peas for fresh use and some to freeze.
Freshly shelled peas freeze perfectly if blanched for 3 minutes. Refresh them under cold tap water, drain well, pack into boxes or bags, label and freeze. I have not had good luck freezing either snow or snap peas, and we actually prefer the flavor of the old fashioned, English shelling peas. The extra effort to shell them is worth it.
When visiting friends in Colorado a while back, we had dinner at the Bentfork Grill in Ft. Collins. As an appetizer, we were served house-made sourdough bread, grilled, with house-made ricotta, fresh peas, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. The peas had barely been cooked, and the dish was as good as it gets. When our homegrown peas, we find the same dish just as tasty with purchased ricotta.
Another good way to use fresh peas is to make soup. Cook peas and chopped onions in chicken broth, season to taste and puree in a blender. You can add cream to the puree to make a richer soup. Either way, garnish with cooked fresh peas, and the herb of your choice. Mint and tarragon are traditional, but feel free to experiment. This soup can be served hot or cold. The puree keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a week.
Sunday, May 26, 2019
Asparagus Quiche
We are almost at the end of the asparagus season in East Tennessee. Now is a good time to make asparagus quiche. It is great for a Sunday brunch, perfect for a spring picnic, and freezes perfectly, so you can take advantage of the current abundance, and enjoy the quiche later.
John’s Asparagus
Quiche
If you
do not have a rectangular tart pan with removable bottom, you can make this in
a 9-inch pie pan. You may need additional filling. The ratio is two tablespoons
of cream for each egg.
4 servings
12 spears fresh asparagus
Crust for a 9-inch pie, homemade or store bought
Gruyere or Swiss cheese, grated, about a half cup, more
if you wish
3 eggs
6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
Break
off the lower end of the asparagus spears. Trim the spears to fit the width of
the tart pan, about 4 inches per piece. (If using a round pie pan, leave the
spears whole.) Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, drop in the
asparagus, and cook for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and refresh the
asparagus under cold running water, then drain well. Transfer the asparagus to
a paper towel-lined tray and blot dry. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Line a
5 x 14-inch rectangular tart pan with removable bottom with the pie crust. If
using a purchased crust, you may need to piece it together to fit the
rectangle, as most of them are round. As long as you press firmly to seal any
seams, this will work fine. Scatter the cheese in the bottom of the crust,
covering it evenly.
In a
medium bowl, mix the eggs and cream until thoroughly combined. Season with salt
and pepper, and pour into the crust. Arrange the asparagus spears on the
surface of the custard. (If using a round pan, place them like the spokes of a
wheel.) Sprinkle the tarragon evenly over the top. Place the tart pan on a
baking sheet and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.
Remove from the oven and cool for 10-15 minutes. Remove the rim from the tart
pan, and cut the quiche crossways into four serving pieces. Store leftovers in
the refrigerator and warm slightly before serving.
Quiche
is better warm, rather than piping hot.
Bon appetit!
Saturday, April 27, 2019
Asparagus Season
The first asparagus spears always seem to appear around Tax Day here in the Valley. This year has been no exception, and we are harvesting some top quality spears on a daily basis. Our asparagus is in a raised bed only 3 by 6 feet, and was started with 5 Jersey Giant plants about 10 years ago. Now having matured, the bed produces all the asparagus we care to eat for about 10 weeks.
Here are three of my favorite ways to prepare freshly harvested asparagus. For each recipe, I snap the spears by hand, allowing them to break at a natural point. The tough bottom ends of the stems can be used to make a delicious stock for the soup. Save up the stems from two or three pickings of asparagus, storing them in an airtight container in the refrigerator, and you will have enough for about three cups of the delicious stock.
Asparagus Milanese
Poach the asparagus in simmering salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, or until just tender. Transfer to a warmed plate, then top with a poached egg, grated parmesan, and a few sprinkles of salt and pepper.
Variation: Instead of poaching the eggs, scramble them in butter with some chopped fresh tarragon, or another fresh herb. Top each serving with a dollop of eggs and some additional fresh herb for garnish.
Pappardelle with Ricotta, Asparagus and Peas
Cut off the tips of the asparagus and cut the stalks into one-inch pieces. Drop the stalks into rapidly boiling salted water and cook for two minutes, add the tips and 1/2 cup of peas, fresh or frozen. Cook for one minute. Drain, then refresh in cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer the vegetables to a large heatproof bowl. Cook pappardelle in rapidly boiling salted water according to the package directions. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Combine the hot cooked pasta with the vegetables, and add 1/2 cup of ricotta. Stir to combine and create a creamy sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve at once on heated plates.
Variation: Feel free to add garlic, green onions, herbs or any combination to this versatile dish.
Cream of Asparagus
Prepare asparagus stock by simmering the stalk ends from about one pound of spears in one quart of water, adding half a white onion, some parsley stems and a sprig of fresh tarragon. Simmer until reduced to 3 cups, about 45 minutes to one hour. Strain, discarding the solids. Keep warm. Meanwhile, cut the tips from the spears and reserve them. Chop the remainder of the spears into bite size pieces and reserve them separately from the tips. Place a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and melt a tablespoon of butter. Add some chopped onion and saute until it is translucent. Add the chopped asparagus spears and stir briefly to coat with the butter. Add the three cups of stock and bring to a boil. Cook 1 minute, add the tips of the spears, and cook one minute longer. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of warmed heavy cream. Serve immediately, garnished with minced fresh tarragon or parsley.
Variation: Poach the asparagus tips separately in a little butter and reserve them to garnish the soup. After cooking the asparagus spears in the stock, puree the mixture in a blender before combining the puree with the cream and reheating to serving temperature.
Bon appetit!
Here are three of my favorite ways to prepare freshly harvested asparagus. For each recipe, I snap the spears by hand, allowing them to break at a natural point. The tough bottom ends of the stems can be used to make a delicious stock for the soup. Save up the stems from two or three pickings of asparagus, storing them in an airtight container in the refrigerator, and you will have enough for about three cups of the delicious stock.
Asparagus Milanese
Poach the asparagus in simmering salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, or until just tender. Transfer to a warmed plate, then top with a poached egg, grated parmesan, and a few sprinkles of salt and pepper.
Variation: Instead of poaching the eggs, scramble them in butter with some chopped fresh tarragon, or another fresh herb. Top each serving with a dollop of eggs and some additional fresh herb for garnish.
Pappardelle with Ricotta, Asparagus and Peas
Cut off the tips of the asparagus and cut the stalks into one-inch pieces. Drop the stalks into rapidly boiling salted water and cook for two minutes, add the tips and 1/2 cup of peas, fresh or frozen. Cook for one minute. Drain, then refresh in cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer the vegetables to a large heatproof bowl. Cook pappardelle in rapidly boiling salted water according to the package directions. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Combine the hot cooked pasta with the vegetables, and add 1/2 cup of ricotta. Stir to combine and create a creamy sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve at once on heated plates.
Variation: Feel free to add garlic, green onions, herbs or any combination to this versatile dish.
Cream of Asparagus
Prepare asparagus stock by simmering the stalk ends from about one pound of spears in one quart of water, adding half a white onion, some parsley stems and a sprig of fresh tarragon. Simmer until reduced to 3 cups, about 45 minutes to one hour. Strain, discarding the solids. Keep warm. Meanwhile, cut the tips from the spears and reserve them. Chop the remainder of the spears into bite size pieces and reserve them separately from the tips. Place a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and melt a tablespoon of butter. Add some chopped onion and saute until it is translucent. Add the chopped asparagus spears and stir briefly to coat with the butter. Add the three cups of stock and bring to a boil. Cook 1 minute, add the tips of the spears, and cook one minute longer. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of warmed heavy cream. Serve immediately, garnished with minced fresh tarragon or parsley.
Variation: Poach the asparagus tips separately in a little butter and reserve them to garnish the soup. After cooking the asparagus spears in the stock, puree the mixture in a blender before combining the puree with the cream and reheating to serving temperature.
Bon appetit!
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
Spring Planting
Now is the time for East Tennessee gardeners to plant cool season crops. It will soon be too late for transplanting cabbage and broccoli, so if you are growing those this year, you'd better get busy. These days, it gets hot enough in May to stop the growth of most brassicas. Your cabbage may not head up, and your broccoli may not bloom.
This is an ideal time to direct seed most leafy greens. Lettuces will take about 75 days, but many mustards, such as arugula and radishes, will be ready in about 6 weeks. Follow the instructions on the seed packages for proper sowing depth, water the seedbed every day if it doesn't rain, and expect most things to germinate within one week.
You can also direct seed beets and carrots, both of which take a little longer to germinate. Carrots can take up to three weeks. Either vegetable should be thinned to the correct spacing (see the back of the seed packet) as soon as most of the seedlings have emerged. Delay in thinning will slow growth and might even limit production. A pair of plastic tweezers is useful for thinning, if you have large hands like I do. Beets will benefit from the addition of wood ashes to their bed, which raises the pH. A cup of wood ashes is sufficient for a ten-foot row of beets. Don't put the ashes directly on the seeds. Instead, work ashes into the soil a few days before planting.
This season, I am growing some vegetables in containers as part of a photography project. If you plan on a container vegetable garden, I suggest using nothing smaller than a twelve-inch diameter pot. Five gallon buckets make good vegetable containers, too, but you will need to drill drainage holes in the bottom. Cover the holes with plastic window screen before filling the container. This keeps snails, slugs and insects from taking up residence in the pot. Remember that container vegetables need frequent watering and fertilizing in order to perform well. You can use soluble fertilizer, time-release fertilizer added to the potting mix, or a granular organic fertilizer.
If you are starting your own transplants, now is as good time to sow tomatoes indoors. Wait another couple of weeks before sowing eggplant or peppers, as these two need more heat. Most transplants will be ready about a month after germination, so plan accordingly.
This is an ideal time to direct seed most leafy greens. Lettuces will take about 75 days, but many mustards, such as arugula and radishes, will be ready in about 6 weeks. Follow the instructions on the seed packages for proper sowing depth, water the seedbed every day if it doesn't rain, and expect most things to germinate within one week.
You can also direct seed beets and carrots, both of which take a little longer to germinate. Carrots can take up to three weeks. Either vegetable should be thinned to the correct spacing (see the back of the seed packet) as soon as most of the seedlings have emerged. Delay in thinning will slow growth and might even limit production. A pair of plastic tweezers is useful for thinning, if you have large hands like I do. Beets will benefit from the addition of wood ashes to their bed, which raises the pH. A cup of wood ashes is sufficient for a ten-foot row of beets. Don't put the ashes directly on the seeds. Instead, work ashes into the soil a few days before planting.
This season, I am growing some vegetables in containers as part of a photography project. If you plan on a container vegetable garden, I suggest using nothing smaller than a twelve-inch diameter pot. Five gallon buckets make good vegetable containers, too, but you will need to drill drainage holes in the bottom. Cover the holes with plastic window screen before filling the container. This keeps snails, slugs and insects from taking up residence in the pot. Remember that container vegetables need frequent watering and fertilizing in order to perform well. You can use soluble fertilizer, time-release fertilizer added to the potting mix, or a granular organic fertilizer.
If you are starting your own transplants, now is as good time to sow tomatoes indoors. Wait another couple of weeks before sowing eggplant or peppers, as these two need more heat. Most transplants will be ready about a month after germination, so plan accordingly.
Monday, March 18, 2019
Potatoes
Traditionally, St. Patrick's Day was the day to plant potatoes in East Tennessee. However, this year the day falls on Sunday, and none of my ancestors would have approved of tater planting on the Sabbath.
Thus, today would be the perfect day to plant potatoes. They will be ready to dig anywhere from three to four months from now, depending upon the variety you select.
Some good options for East Tennessee are:
Kennebec--A standard white potato with brown skin, Kennebec is a good keeper.
Red Pontiac--Red-skinned, white-fleshed Red Pontiac is good for potato salad.
Yukon Gold--Yellow-fleshed Yukon Gold is an all-purpose potato that keeps well.
All Blue--The name says it all. Blue potatoes are similar to Russet. They make good bakers and fries.
Irish Cobbler--This old heirloom produces both red- and white-skinned potatoes with excellent flavor.
Buy seed potatoes from a garden center. They will have been certified free of potato viruses that can infect your growing beds if you use potatoes from the grocery store. About five pounds of seed potatoes will produce an abundant harvest from a small space. Potatoes are not picky about soil fertility, so long as the soil is deep and contains lots of organic matter. Cut seed potatoes into chunks, each of which should have two to three eyes. Place the chunks, eyes up, in the bottom of a trench dug three inches deep in the garden bed. Space potatoes 12-18 inches apart.
When the shoots are 6 inches tall, pile compost or soil around them so that just the tips are exposed. When another 6 inches of shoots are visible above the soil, hill them up a second time. Then leave them to grow until you are ready to harvest. Potatoes need an inch of water per week, and should have a side dressing of balanced fertilizer after the second hill-up.
When blooms appear on potatoes, you can steal a few new potatoes from the hill by carefully digging in with your fingers. For storage potatoes, wait until the tops have died and shriveled.
I don't consider potatoes an essential garden product. In spring, if you have limited space you are better off growing spinach, lettuce, green onions, radishes, and miscellaneous leafy greens instead of using the space for potatoes. You will harvest many more servings per square foot.
Thus, today would be the perfect day to plant potatoes. They will be ready to dig anywhere from three to four months from now, depending upon the variety you select.
Some good options for East Tennessee are:
Kennebec--A standard white potato with brown skin, Kennebec is a good keeper.
Red Pontiac--Red-skinned, white-fleshed Red Pontiac is good for potato salad.
Yukon Gold--Yellow-fleshed Yukon Gold is an all-purpose potato that keeps well.
All Blue--The name says it all. Blue potatoes are similar to Russet. They make good bakers and fries.
Irish Cobbler--This old heirloom produces both red- and white-skinned potatoes with excellent flavor.
Buy seed potatoes from a garden center. They will have been certified free of potato viruses that can infect your growing beds if you use potatoes from the grocery store. About five pounds of seed potatoes will produce an abundant harvest from a small space. Potatoes are not picky about soil fertility, so long as the soil is deep and contains lots of organic matter. Cut seed potatoes into chunks, each of which should have two to three eyes. Place the chunks, eyes up, in the bottom of a trench dug three inches deep in the garden bed. Space potatoes 12-18 inches apart.
When the shoots are 6 inches tall, pile compost or soil around them so that just the tips are exposed. When another 6 inches of shoots are visible above the soil, hill them up a second time. Then leave them to grow until you are ready to harvest. Potatoes need an inch of water per week, and should have a side dressing of balanced fertilizer after the second hill-up.
When blooms appear on potatoes, you can steal a few new potatoes from the hill by carefully digging in with your fingers. For storage potatoes, wait until the tops have died and shriveled.
I don't consider potatoes an essential garden product. In spring, if you have limited space you are better off growing spinach, lettuce, green onions, radishes, and miscellaneous leafy greens instead of using the space for potatoes. You will harvest many more servings per square foot.
Thursday, February 28, 2019
Suddenly It's Spring
Although we are in for a spate of cold weather, maybe two, before we are done, heavy rains during the month of February, followed by a warm spell, has brought many of the spring bulbs into bloom, along with some ephemeral natives, such as toothwort. The quickening buds and warming temperatures have me thinking of my favorite spring tonic, kilt lettuce.
My friend, Amy Campbell, recently demonstrated how to make kilt lettuce in an appearance on Live at Five at Four, on WBIR-TV, Knoxville. This time-honored dish could not be simpler to make.
Fill a big, heatproof bowl with fresh lettuce leaves and several scallions cut into bite-size pieces. In a skillet, fry some bacon, one strip for every serving of salad. When the bacon is crisp, remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels. For two servings, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of drippings. Return the skillet to the heat and add 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. As soon as it comes to a boil, pour over the lettuce. Toss and stir the lettuce until most of it is wilted. Grind some black pepper over the salad, garnish with crumbled bacon, and serve at once.
I came up with a vegetarian version that contains less fat and calories. You can find that recipe in Appalachian Cooking.
My friend, Amy Campbell, recently demonstrated how to make kilt lettuce in an appearance on Live at Five at Four, on WBIR-TV, Knoxville. This time-honored dish could not be simpler to make.
Fill a big, heatproof bowl with fresh lettuce leaves and several scallions cut into bite-size pieces. In a skillet, fry some bacon, one strip for every serving of salad. When the bacon is crisp, remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels. For two servings, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of drippings. Return the skillet to the heat and add 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. As soon as it comes to a boil, pour over the lettuce. Toss and stir the lettuce until most of it is wilted. Grind some black pepper over the salad, garnish with crumbled bacon, and serve at once.
I came up with a vegetarian version that contains less fat and calories. You can find that recipe in Appalachian Cooking.
Saturday, February 16, 2019
Dreaming of Summer
Winters here in the Tennessee Valley are often mild. Snow in the forecast sends people rushing to the grocery store for provisions, even if the prediction is for only a dusting. Valley residents learn quickly that predicting our weather is an art, not a science.
Mild though they may be, our winters are typically overcast and rainy. A few warm, sunny days always punctuate the gloom, and serve to make our longing for spring even more acute.
Thinking ahead to the summer, hamburgers and hot dogs come to mind, and both of those need mustard. If you have never tried making homemade beer mustard, you are really missing out. It is both better and cheaper than anything in the market. All you need is a kitchen scale and a blender, and you can wing it without the scale. Here are the basics. You can find the detailed recipe in Appalachian Cooking.
I like to use equal parts, about one ounce each, of brown and yellow mustard seeds. Feel free to alter that ratio or to use all of one or the other. If you don't have a scale, an ounce of mustard seeds is a bit more than two tablespoons. Exact amounts are not critical, unless you are trying to maintain a consistent flavor.
Put the seeds in a pint jar and pour over them a little more than a cup of beer. The choice of beer will make a big difference in the final product. Choose a craft IPA, rather than an American-style lager. I have had good results with several regional beers, including Sweetwater (Atlanta), Highland (Asheville), Yee Haw (Johnson City) and Depot Street (Jonesborough). I aim to make a batch soon with Hop Candy IPA from Crafty Bastard Brewery (Knoxville).
Allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 24 hours. The seeds will absorb the beer and swell. Add salt, sugar, vinegar, onion powder and dry mustard according to the recipe. Stir the mixture well and place it in the refrigerator, tightly covered. Leave it to age for a month or more.
After aging the mustard, transfer the contents of the jar to a blender. Wash the jar with hot, soapy water and set aside for the finished mustard. Blend the mustard until it is of the consistency you prefer. It can take several minutes. Be patient. I like mine on the grainy side, so I blend for about 4 minutes. The longer you blend, the smoother the finished mustard will be. After blending, return the mustard to the jar and replace it in the refrigerator. It will only get better with additional age.
You can use this same method to prepare your own Dijon mustard, using wine and wine vinegar instead of the beer mustard ingredients. Mustard is an ancient condiment, so the possible variations are endless.
Start now, and your well-aged homemade mustard will be ready to slather on grilled goodies by the Spring Equinox.
Mild though they may be, our winters are typically overcast and rainy. A few warm, sunny days always punctuate the gloom, and serve to make our longing for spring even more acute.
Thinking ahead to the summer, hamburgers and hot dogs come to mind, and both of those need mustard. If you have never tried making homemade beer mustard, you are really missing out. It is both better and cheaper than anything in the market. All you need is a kitchen scale and a blender, and you can wing it without the scale. Here are the basics. You can find the detailed recipe in Appalachian Cooking.
I like to use equal parts, about one ounce each, of brown and yellow mustard seeds. Feel free to alter that ratio or to use all of one or the other. If you don't have a scale, an ounce of mustard seeds is a bit more than two tablespoons. Exact amounts are not critical, unless you are trying to maintain a consistent flavor.
Put the seeds in a pint jar and pour over them a little more than a cup of beer. The choice of beer will make a big difference in the final product. Choose a craft IPA, rather than an American-style lager. I have had good results with several regional beers, including Sweetwater (Atlanta), Highland (Asheville), Yee Haw (Johnson City) and Depot Street (Jonesborough). I aim to make a batch soon with Hop Candy IPA from Crafty Bastard Brewery (Knoxville).
Allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 24 hours. The seeds will absorb the beer and swell. Add salt, sugar, vinegar, onion powder and dry mustard according to the recipe. Stir the mixture well and place it in the refrigerator, tightly covered. Leave it to age for a month or more.
After aging the mustard, transfer the contents of the jar to a blender. Wash the jar with hot, soapy water and set aside for the finished mustard. Blend the mustard until it is of the consistency you prefer. It can take several minutes. Be patient. I like mine on the grainy side, so I blend for about 4 minutes. The longer you blend, the smoother the finished mustard will be. After blending, return the mustard to the jar and replace it in the refrigerator. It will only get better with additional age.
You can use this same method to prepare your own Dijon mustard, using wine and wine vinegar instead of the beer mustard ingredients. Mustard is an ancient condiment, so the possible variations are endless.
Start now, and your well-aged homemade mustard will be ready to slather on grilled goodies by the Spring Equinox.
Saturday, February 2, 2019
The Starving Moon
Welcome to February, known to the Cherokee as the "Starving Moon." It was a time when stored food was running low, but the spring greens and awakening wildlife had yet to appear. No doubt, it was a time when the most vulnerable often died.
We are fortunate to have any and all foods available to us year round, from fresh asparagus in January to strawberries for Christmas. This is a recent phenomenon. Supermarkets did not begin to appear everywhere until after World War II. I can recall my mother, who was born in 1926, saying that celery and oranges were special treats available only during the Christmas season.
Thus, we need only go back in time a few decades to know that pickled, dried, and otherwise preserved foods were essential to our ancestor's survival in the Appalachian region. Most famously, our hams and bacon form the flavor base for iconic Appalachian foods. Beans or greens made without cured pork have only recently come into vogue, and are definitely non-traditional.
Our ancestors made pickles out of everything from watermelon rinds to pig's feet, demonstrating that the "zero waste" food movement is, in fact, old hat around here. To this day, I stock the pantry every summer with pickles, the choice depending upon what is seasonally or locally abundant. Using them throughout the cold months brings a touch of warm weather to the table. Did you know that pickled okra can substitute for fresh in a gumbo or fry? It will have lost its thickening ability, but the characteristic flavor remains. You can make pickles out of virtually any vegetable or fruit.
Dried foods were also important to our ancestors. Apple stack cake would not be the same without dried apples for the filling. Green beans, or "leather britches," were typically strung on thread and hung on the side of a building to dry in the sun. Dried herbs not only provided flavor enhancement in the kitchen, but also were the basis of numerous home remedies.
Home canning and freezing are enjoying a resurgence. These are among the best preservation methods for a wide range of foods, provided the methods are properly carried out. Nevertheless, if you want the true experience of traditional flavors, plan on pickling or drying some of your produce during the coming season.
Next Starving Moon, you will be glad you did.
We are fortunate to have any and all foods available to us year round, from fresh asparagus in January to strawberries for Christmas. This is a recent phenomenon. Supermarkets did not begin to appear everywhere until after World War II. I can recall my mother, who was born in 1926, saying that celery and oranges were special treats available only during the Christmas season.
Thus, we need only go back in time a few decades to know that pickled, dried, and otherwise preserved foods were essential to our ancestor's survival in the Appalachian region. Most famously, our hams and bacon form the flavor base for iconic Appalachian foods. Beans or greens made without cured pork have only recently come into vogue, and are definitely non-traditional.
Our ancestors made pickles out of everything from watermelon rinds to pig's feet, demonstrating that the "zero waste" food movement is, in fact, old hat around here. To this day, I stock the pantry every summer with pickles, the choice depending upon what is seasonally or locally abundant. Using them throughout the cold months brings a touch of warm weather to the table. Did you know that pickled okra can substitute for fresh in a gumbo or fry? It will have lost its thickening ability, but the characteristic flavor remains. You can make pickles out of virtually any vegetable or fruit.
Dried foods were also important to our ancestors. Apple stack cake would not be the same without dried apples for the filling. Green beans, or "leather britches," were typically strung on thread and hung on the side of a building to dry in the sun. Dried herbs not only provided flavor enhancement in the kitchen, but also were the basis of numerous home remedies.
Home canning and freezing are enjoying a resurgence. These are among the best preservation methods for a wide range of foods, provided the methods are properly carried out. Nevertheless, if you want the true experience of traditional flavors, plan on pickling or drying some of your produce during the coming season.
Next Starving Moon, you will be glad you did.
Friday, January 11, 2019
Roll It Up
You can make a great meal out of almost anything in the refrigerator and pantry when you have a package of egg roll wrappers or "skins" on hand.
Chinese take out staple egg rolls contain a mixture of protein (finely chopped or ground chicken, shrimp or pork), cabbage, mushrooms, bamboo shoots or carrots, cooked with soy sauce, garlic and ginger. When cool, the mixture is used to fill the egg roll wrappers.
You can also make Southwestern egg rolls. Combine cooked drained beans and corn kernels with peppers, onions, chili powder and garlic to make the filling. You can also include cooked chopped chicken, ground beef or ground pork. Add shredded Tex-Mex cheese blend to the cooled vegetable and protein mixture before filling the wrappers.
How about a Creole version? Combine cooked, chopped Andouille sausage (and any other protein you like) with onions, celery, and green bell peppers, seasoning with Creole seasoning, a drop or two of Worcestershire sauce, and chopped fresh tomatoes.
Vegans will like rolls made with tofu, an assortment of shredded vegetables and fresh herbs.
Regardless of the filling you select, use a mixture of 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a half cup of water to help hold the rolls together. Place a wrapper on a work surface with one corner toward you. Put 2-3 tablespoons of filling on the wrapper. Fold up the corner, then fold in the sides. Brush the top corner with the cornstarch mixture before completing the roll.
Restaurants deep-fry egg rolls, but it is healthier and less messy to bake them. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment and spray the parchment with cooking spray. Place the rolls, seam sides down, on the parchment and spray their tops with cooking spray. Alternatively, brush the parchment and the rolls with a little vegetable oil. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the tops are beginning to brown, turn them over with tongs and continue baking until golden and crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.
Cooked egg rolls freeze well. Just place in a hot oven until re-heated. If they are frozen, it takes about 15 minutes, whereas thawed ones will heat in about 5 minutes.
Chinese take out staple egg rolls contain a mixture of protein (finely chopped or ground chicken, shrimp or pork), cabbage, mushrooms, bamboo shoots or carrots, cooked with soy sauce, garlic and ginger. When cool, the mixture is used to fill the egg roll wrappers.
You can also make Southwestern egg rolls. Combine cooked drained beans and corn kernels with peppers, onions, chili powder and garlic to make the filling. You can also include cooked chopped chicken, ground beef or ground pork. Add shredded Tex-Mex cheese blend to the cooled vegetable and protein mixture before filling the wrappers.
How about a Creole version? Combine cooked, chopped Andouille sausage (and any other protein you like) with onions, celery, and green bell peppers, seasoning with Creole seasoning, a drop or two of Worcestershire sauce, and chopped fresh tomatoes.
Vegans will like rolls made with tofu, an assortment of shredded vegetables and fresh herbs.
Regardless of the filling you select, use a mixture of 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a half cup of water to help hold the rolls together. Place a wrapper on a work surface with one corner toward you. Put 2-3 tablespoons of filling on the wrapper. Fold up the corner, then fold in the sides. Brush the top corner with the cornstarch mixture before completing the roll.
Restaurants deep-fry egg rolls, but it is healthier and less messy to bake them. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment and spray the parchment with cooking spray. Place the rolls, seam sides down, on the parchment and spray their tops with cooking spray. Alternatively, brush the parchment and the rolls with a little vegetable oil. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the tops are beginning to brown, turn them over with tongs and continue baking until golden and crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.
Cooked egg rolls freeze well. Just place in a hot oven until re-heated. If they are frozen, it takes about 15 minutes, whereas thawed ones will heat in about 5 minutes.
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