Dreaming of Summer

Winters here in the Tennessee Valley are often mild. Snow in the forecast sends people rushing to the grocery store for provisions, even if the prediction is for only a dusting. Valley residents learn quickly that predicting our weather is an art, not a science.

Mild though they may be, our winters are typically overcast and rainy. A few warm, sunny days always punctuate the gloom, and serve to make our longing for spring even more acute.

Thinking ahead to the summer, hamburgers and hot dogs come to mind, and both of those need mustard. If you have never tried making homemade beer mustard, you are really missing out. It is both better and cheaper than anything in the market. All you need is a kitchen scale and a blender, and you can wing it without the scale. Here are the basics. You can find the detailed recipe in Appalachian Cooking.

I like to use equal parts, about one ounce each, of brown and yellow mustard seeds. Feel free to alter that ratio or to use all of one or the other. If you don't have a scale, an ounce of mustard seeds is a bit more than two tablespoons. Exact amounts are not critical, unless you are trying to maintain a consistent flavor.

Put the seeds in a pint jar and pour over them a little more than a cup of beer. The choice of beer will make a big difference in the final product. Choose a craft IPA, rather than an American-style lager. I have had good results with several regional beers, including Sweetwater (Atlanta), Highland (Asheville), Yee Haw (Johnson City) and Depot Street (Jonesborough). I aim to make a batch soon with Hop Candy IPA from Crafty Bastard Brewery (Knoxville).

Allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 24 hours. The seeds will absorb the beer and swell. Add salt, sugar, vinegar, onion powder and dry mustard according to the recipe. Stir the mixture well and place it in the refrigerator, tightly covered. Leave it to age for a month or more.

After aging the mustard, transfer the contents of the jar to a blender. Wash the jar with hot, soapy water and set aside for the finished mustard. Blend the mustard until it is of the consistency you prefer. It can take several minutes. Be patient. I like mine on the grainy side, so I blend for about 4 minutes. The longer you blend, the smoother the finished mustard will be. After blending, return the mustard to the jar and replace it in the refrigerator. It will only get better with additional age.

You can use this same method to prepare your own Dijon mustard, using wine and wine vinegar instead of the beer mustard ingredients. Mustard is an ancient condiment, so the possible variations are endless.

Start now, and your well-aged homemade mustard will be ready to slather on grilled goodies by the Spring Equinox.

Gumbo

Now, I know perfectly well that gumbo is not a creation of Appalachian cooks. Indeed, the origins of this iconic dish of the Deep South are shrouded in mystery. The ingredients and techniques involved in making a good gumbo are derived from multiple traditions: okra came from Africa with enslaved people, andouille is clearly French in its origin, and the practice of substituting a mixture of onions, celery and bell peppers for the traditional European mirepoix, along with bold seasoning, comes from the Cajun people who settled in the Louisiana bayou country.

However much gumbo bears its regional imprint, its ingredients are readily available everywhere, and the technique for making it will be familiar to most cooks. If you cannot find fresh okra, frozen is just as good, and you need not even thaw it before adding it to the pot.

Good sides to go with gumbo are potato salad, three bean salad, and sweet corn in any form you like.

One Pot Chicken Gumbo
Don’t be put off by the long ingredients list. Everything you need should be available in any well-stocked grocery store. Some gumbo recipes call for thickening with a roux, which requires long cooking and some experience to get right. This recipe is foolproof, and relies on okra to thicken it. If you can’t find andouille, substitute any good smoked pork sausage. You can multiply the quantities and store the extra seasoning mix in an airtight container for use in other Louisiana-style dishes. (If you go that route, two tablespoons is the right amount for this dish.) The seasoning mix and the combination of onions, celery and bell peppers, create that distinctive Creole and Cajun flavor. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

1½ teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs

3 ounces andouille sausage

¾ cup chopped onion

½ cup chopped celery

½ cup chopped green bell pepper

¼ cup vegetable oil

½ pound okra, in half-inch pieces

1½ tablespoons minced garlic

4 cups chicken stock

½ cup drained and diced canned tomatoes

2 bay leaves

Cooked rice and sliced green onions, to serve

Hot sauce

Combine the paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, thyme, and black pepper in a small bowl.  Mix well and set aside. Cut the chicken into 1-inch chunks. Sprinkle half the seasoning mix over it and allow to stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Chop the andouille into ¼” dice.  Combine the onion, celery and bell pepper in a small bowl.

In a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat until it ripples. Add the chicken pieces and stir fry until they are lightly browned.  Transfer the chicken to a plate. Reduce the heat and add the sausage.  Cook until browned.  With a metal spoon, remove any excess fat. Add half the chopped vegetables and half the remaining seasoning mix.  Cook until the onion is translucent.  Add the okra, the garlic and one cup of the chicken stock and bring to a boil, stirring well. Adjust the heat and simmer until the stock is reduced by half. Add remaining chopped vegetables, the tomatoes, the remaining seasoning mix, bay leaves, remaining 3 cups of stock and the chicken, along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate.  Simmer 30 minutes.  Serve with rice, topped with chopped scallions. Pass hot sauce.