The Peaches of August

When one of my friends outside the South asks me how we can endure the heat and humidity of August, I reply that the reward is August peaches. You can get them earlier, but those varieties are not nearly as good, in my view, as the ones that arrive in August. 

When I was a kid, we lived on a gravel road in the country, and every year around my birthday, a man came through the neighborhood in a pickup truck laden with baskets of fresh, luscious peaches. There were two varieties. Georgia Belles were yellow-fleshed, red-skinned fruits that my grandmother preferred for canning. Grandpa usually bought a bushel of them. The others were Alberta, a white-fleshed freestone that could be as big as a softball. The flavor was perfectly peachy, sweet and aromatic with notes of cinnamon and vanilla. We would eat the Alberta peaches out of hand, sitting on the front porch, juice dripping from our chins, wasps buzzing down to feed from the little puddles of juice at our feet. Peaches that escaped being eaten this way were soon made into cobbler by Grandma. Here is a scaled-down version of a recipe that tastes like the one I remember.

Peach Cobbler

Makes one 8-inch square pan

1/4 cup butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup granulated sugar, divided

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

pinch of salt

1/2 cup whole milk

2 cups slices of peeled, fresh peaches (3-4 fruits)

1-1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

Ground cinnamon

Place the butter in an 8-inch square baking pan and set on a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Watch carefully and remove the baking pan when the butter has melted. Leave the oven on.

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt and 1/2 cup of the sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the milk and stir to combine. Pour the batter into the melted butter in the baking pan. DO NOT STIR

Place the remaining sugar, the peaches and the lemon juice in a saucepan set over medium-low heat and bring just to a boil. Spoon the hot fruit mixture over the batter in the baking pan. DO NOT STIR. Sprinkle the surface of the cobbler with ground cinnamon to your liking.

Place the pan in the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the top crust has formed and is golden brown in color. Remove from the oven and cool. The crust will not completely cover the top of the cobbler. (See photo.)

Serve the cobbler at room temperature, or refrigerate and serve cold. A dollop of vanilla ice cream goes very well with this dish.

You can double the recipe and use a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Increase the baking time by 5 minutes.

The end result of this recipe depends entirely upon the quality of the peaches. Buy local ones, if possible. The exact variety does not matter. The ones I mentioned are "old-fashioned" now, and newer varieties like Garnet Beauty and White Rose have replaced them. Peaches at the produce market should be firm and fragrant. Leave them on the counter for 2 to 3 days, and they should ripen to perfection.

 

White Bean Soup With Country Ham

This recipe is the result of my attempt to duplicate the famous United States Senate bean soup, which has been served in the Senate dining room every day since 1903. The original was flavored with Smithfield ham hocks. I have substituted a small amount of country ham, in order to reduce the number of servings to 2. The recipe is easily multiplied, if you are feeding a crowd. Good bread, or cornbread, and a green salad would make a complete meal. You can buy country ham scraps in vacuum packs wherever country ham is available. Canned beans are a great convenience food. You can also start with dried beans, about a half cup, soaked overnight and cooked until tender.

White Bean Soup with Country Ham

2 Servings

2-3 ounces country ham scraps
2 teaspoon vegetable oil, divided
1 cup water
1/2 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped carrots
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
A big pinch of saffron
1/2 cup diced peeled potatoes
1 can (15.4 ounces) Great Northern beans
Chopped fresh parsley to garnish

Carefully remove all the visible fat from the ham pieces and reserve it. Chop the ham into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve separately. Place 1 teaspoon of the oil in a small skillet and set it over medium heat. When the oil ripples, add the reserved ham fat and cook, turning now and then, until all the fat is rendered and the pieces are brown and crisp. Remove the ham cracklings with a slotted spoon and discard. Add the chopped ham and cook, turning once or twice, until the color has darkened and there are bits of brown on the bottom of the skillet. Reduce the heat, pour in the water, and stir to deglaze the skillet. Set the skillet aside and allow the contents to cool.

In a medium saucepan or Dutch oven heat the remaining oil  over medium low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften. Add the celery and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and bay leaf and cook an additional minute or two. Pour the reserved contents of the skillet into the pan and adjust the heat to bring it to a gentle simmer. Add the saffron and potatoes, stir to combine, and cook, stirring once or twice, until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the beans with their liquid, stir and heat through. Serve garnished with the parsley.

Dessert of Christmas Past

Nostalgia always seems fashionable at Christmastime. Here is a dessert that I first had in the 1950s. It was a specialty of my Aunt Juanita Tullock. She often made it for us to enjoy after dinner on Christmas Eve. Simple, light, and delicious, this dish would make a fine ending for any holiday meal. Because chilling is required, it can be done hours in advance, ideal when you are having guests and a million things to do to get ready.

The key to success lies in the double boiler technique. You want the bowl with the eggs sitting over, but not in, simmering water. If the water touches the bottom of the bowl, the eggs will curdle before the custard thickens. Apart from that, the recipe is foolproof. It can also be doubled successfully, if you have a crowd.

Aunt Juanita's Fluffy Boiled Custard

4 servings

6 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 tablespoons whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In the top of a double boiler or other suitable heatproof bowl, beat the egg yolks. Add the sugar and milk and mix well to combine. Place the egg mixture over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla extract, and allow to cool for 10 minutes. While the custard cools, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the custard. Refrigerate until chilled, and serve cold.

The Relish Tray

I see that charcuterie and cheese boards are all the rage this season, and I am reminded of the old Southern tradition of serving a "relish tray" as part of a special occasion meal. Along with deviled eggs, a glass plate with a variety of colorful, crunchy homemade pickles was a regular feature of family holiday dinners when I was growing up.

You can always purchase pickles at the grocery store, but making your own is pretty simple. You can make homemade pickles now, and keep them in the refrigerator until Christmas or New Year's Eve. If you make a batch today, they will even be ready in time for Thanksgiving dinner.

Always select the prettiest, most nearly perfect produce for making pickles. Carefully wash and trim the vegetables and cut them into bite size pieces. Good choices include cucumbers, carrots, cauliflower, celery, asparagus, turnips, squash (summer and winter), beets, parsnips, bell peppers and tomatoes. You can also make pickles out of berries and other fruits, although the procedure is a little different than the one for vegetables.

Wash and rinse a canning jar and place it in a warm oven to stay hot. Combine a cup of water and a cup of white vinegar with a tablespoon of salt in a small saucepan. Set the pan over medium heat, adding your choice of whole spices. Use any combination of mustard seeds, coriander, cloves, cinnamon stick, allspice berries, bay leaves and peppercorns. You need a teaspoon of spices for each pint of pickling liquid. You can also add garlic, hot peppers, and/or dill seeds or a dill head to a jar of pickles. Add them with the vegetables, rather than steeping them in the pickling liquid.

Bring the liquid to a simmer and allow it to bubble gently for 10 minutes while you pack the vegetables and flavorings into the hot jar. Pour the hot liquid over the contents of the jar. Allow it to sit for a moment to release air bubbles, or use a bamboo skewer to free air bubbles from the sides of the jar. Apply and lid and allow the jar to cool to room temperature. Place the jar in the refrigerator and wait a week before enjoying the pickles.

To pickle fruits or tomatoes, allow the pickling liquid to cool before pouring it over the contents of a room temperature jar. This works with whole berries, peeled and seeded tomato quarters, cherries, and stone fruits. Add a teaspoon of sugar to the pickling liquid for added sweetness, if you prefer.

Use an assortment of homemade pickles to create a colorful, traditional relish tray for your holiday table.

Shrimp and Grits

Here is a recipe that you can multiply at will for holiday entertaining. Like many good restaurant dishes, the secret to this one is advance preparation. Everything can be made ahead and kept warm, with the shrimp being grilled at the last minute.

I have shamelessly stolen the idea for this dish from one of Knoxville’s best restaurants, JC Holdway, located on Union Avenue.

If you are accustomed to the shrimp and grits, often featuring a heavy cheese sauce, that are offered up by chain restaurants, you are in for a treat. Adding cheese is anathema in the South Carolina Low Country where shrimp and grits likely originated. While this version differs from the traditional recipe, it nevertheless captures the richness of the original. The recipe seems complicated, but with a little prep, it comes together quickly.


2 servings, easily multiplied


6 large shrimp, unpeeled


For the shrimp stock reduction:

1 tablespoon chopped onion

¼ cup chopped celery with leaves


Seasoning mix:

½ teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt


For the grits:

1 cup yellow corn grits (I used Yelton’s)

1 ½ cups water

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter


For the seafood hollandaise sauce:

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons shrimp stock reduction

¼ cup butter, in pats

1 teaspoon basil vinegar or lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper



                Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving the tail segment intact and reserving the shells. Place the peeled shrimp on a plate and keep refrigerated.



                In a small saucepan combine the reserved shrimp shells, the onion and the celery. Add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer gently 1 hour. Strain the shrimp stock through a fine sieve, discarding the solids, and return it to the pan. Over gentle heat, reduce the stock to 2 tablespoons. Watch carefully as it reduces to prevent burning. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Measure the cooled reduction carefully. If you have less than two tablespoons, add water.



                Combine the seasoning mix ingredients in a small bowl. Reserve.



                Bring 1 ½ cups water and ½ teaspoon of salt to boil in a large saucepan. Add the grits, stirring well. Immediately reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter. Remove from the heat and keep warm.



                In the top of a double boiler, place the egg yolks and shrimp stock reduction. Set the top over the bottom half, which should have 2-3 inches of water. Water should not touch the top half, or the eggs will curdle. Turn on the heat and bring the water to a boil, whisking. Adjust the heat so the water just simmers, and continue to whisk until the mixture thickens. Add the butter, one pat at a time, whisking to incorporate before adding another pat. Remove the top half of the boiler and whisk in the vinegar (or lemon juice) and white pepper. Keep the sauce warm.



                To finish the dish, spray a grill pan with cooking spray and place it over medium-high heat. Take the shrimp out of the refrigerator, sprinkle them with the seasoning mix, using as much or as little as you prefer, and place them on the hot pan. When the bottom side begins to turn opaque, flip the shrimp with tongs and cook them on the other side. Three or four minutes should be sufficient, depending upon the size of the shrimp.



                Place a dollop of grits on a heated plate. Set three of the grilled shrimp on top of the grits. Surround the grits with hollandaise sauce.



Notes: Chef Joseph Lenn at JC Holdway garnishes this dish with pickled tomatoes and microgreens. I happened to have pickled tomatoes I made last summer, but you could also use a dollop of salsa, or some canned tomatoes spiked up with a little vinegar and spices. Garnish with any fresh herb you happen to have. I used parsley, but tarragon or chives, both in season here in autumn, would also be good. Look for "stone ground" yellow corn grits. Several small suppliers in North Carolina make excellent products. Yelton's is my favorite, but use whatever good quality grits you have available.

Here in Tennessee, frozen seafood is usually better than "fresh" which is typically frozen seafood thawed by the store. I buy raw, unpeeled wild harvested North Carolina shrimp. It comes individually frozen in bags. I divide up a bag among smaller containers so I have shrimp in the freezer whenever I want it.

Fall Means Pear Season

As East Tennessee begins to feel some relief from summer heat, and the trees start to take on their autumn colors, produce bins fill with pears. Early arrivals are Bartlett, Red Bartlett, and Bosc (my favorite). Later, we will see Comice, and perhaps a few others.

In search of a good, easy recipe for pears, I found this one. I have tested it and made a few tweaks. If you want to read the original recipe, I have posted a link at the end.

This crust-less custard pie could not be simpler. Most of the prep time involves peeling and slicing the pears. You can use any suitable baking dish or pan for this pie, but you will need to adjust the baking time. I made the recipe in a 9-inch, well-seasoned cast iron skillet.

I always choose slightly under-ripe pears, as they tolerate shipping best. Place them in a basket on your kitchen counter and add a banana or two to help them ripen. They are perfect for this recipe when the "neck" yields slightly to gentle pressure.

Crust-less Pear Custard Pie

Makes one 9-inch pie.

Cooking spray
4 pears, firm ripe, any variety
3/4 cup whole milk
3 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted and slightly cooled

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat a 9-inch cast iron skillet with cooking spray.

Peel, core and slice the pears lengthwise, arranging the slices in the prepared skillet as you go.

Combine the remaining ingredients, in the order given, in the jar of a blender or the bowl of a food processor. Turn on the machine and process until smooth, about 15 seconds. Pour the batter over the pears.

Bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before serving.

Garnish with flavored sugar, powdered sugar, chopped fresh mint, or bits of candied or dried pear.

The original recipe and blog post can be found here.

Easy Late Summer Fish Provencal

Late summer brings new growth from tarragon and basil plants that were sheared earlier in the season. Here, I combine them with other summer flavors to create Fish Provencal. Feel free to tinker with the amounts of herbs and other flavorings as you see fit. I purchase frozen fish, which must be thawed before cooking. To thaw, remove all packaging and place fish in a zipper bag. Immerse the bag in a bowl of cold tap water in the sink. Turn on the tap and let it drizzle into the bowl, overflowing to the sink. Fish should thaw completely in 30 minutes.

Fish Provencal

2 Servings

vegetable oil or cooking spray
2 wild flounder filets
1 medium ripe tomato, cored
1 shallot, peeled
1 lemon
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat the inside of a foil-lined baking pan with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Place the flounder filets in the pan. Slice the tomato and arrange the slices on the fish. Slice the shallots crosswise and scatter the slices over the tomatoes. Slice four slices from the center of the lemon and remove all seeds. Place two slices on each fish filet. Squeeze the juice from one half of the lemon over the fish. Cut the other half of the lemon into two pieces and reserve to garnish the finished dish. Scatter the tarragon, basil, and half the parsley over the fish. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Take care not to overcook.

Transfer the fish to heated serving plates, sprinkle the remaining fresh parsley over, and garnish with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.

A green salad, a glass of wine and good bread make this a complete meal.

August Abundance

My most recent book, Succulents At Home, will begin shipping on October 8. Reserve your copy here.

August brings an abundance of not only tomatoes, but of peaches, sweet corn, squash and cucumbers. Unfortunately, hot weather in some places drastically reduces the cucurbit crops, as pollen dies when the temperature soars above 90 degrees. Fruit and vine borers are also more abundant this time of year. Therefore, head to the farmer's market for the best the season has to offer.

Asian pears are in season in Tennessee during August, and the recipe I am sharing makes good use of them, along with arugula. You could substitute any other salad green for the arugula, but it does play very well with peanuts.

Consider this recipe a sneak preview of my newest book, Grow Food At Home, which is coming out in 2020.


Arugula Salad with Thai-Inspired Dressing

                The fat-free dressing makes this salad extra-light, ideal as the prelude to a summer supper. Another pear can be substituted, or try this recipe with fresh peaches.



Serves 2, easily doubled

2 cups loosely packed arugula leaves, rinsed and spun dry

1 small Asian pear

Juice of 2 limes

2 cloves garlic

1 cube of crystallized ginger, about ½ inch on a side

8 fresh mint leaves

1 ½ teaspoons light brown sugar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

                Arrange half of the arugula on each of two chilled serving plates. Core the pear, slice it in half top to bottom, and cut each half into wedges, arranging them on the arugula. Combine the lime juice, garlic, ginger, mint, sugar and soy sauce in the jar of a blender and liquefy. Pour the dressing over the arugula and pear, using about half of it, and garnish the plate with the chopped peanuts. Serve at once.


My most recent book, Succulents At Home, will begin shipping on October 8. Reserve your copy here.

Tomato Season Has Arrived!

Most gardeners around here grow tomatoes, and now is the time when the avalanche begins. While some of the heirlooms may not begin bearing until August, depending upon when they were planted, virtually all of the cherry tomatoes and hybrid varieties that were transplanted in May are laden with ripe, juicy fruits.

Here are some ideas for using them in the kitchen. Don't forget, if you run out of ideas, just drop whole or quartered tomatoes into freezer containers and freeze them. After thawing later, the skins will slip off and you can use the tomatoes in soup, stew or sauce.

For a fresh summer pizza, brush dough with olive oil, spread lightly with ricotta, and top with thinly sliced tomatoes. Garnish with fresh basil leaves and bake. You can add any other toppings of your choice. Also try fresh thyme sprigs in addition to, or in place of, the basil leaves.

Treat company or your family to my stuffed summer squash with white beans and tomatoes.

Another great way to enjoy tomatoes is in an old-fashioned tomato pie. You can find numerous recipes online, but all you really need is the basic concept, some fresh tomatoes, and staples found in most pantries. Line a tart pan, pie dish or springform pan with your favorite pastry dough. Brush the dough with olive oil, prick it in several places, and cover the bottom with parchment. Add pie weights or dry beans to keep the dough from puffing up, then blind bake in a 375-400 degree oven until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Remove weights and parchment.

Depending upon the baking container you have chosen, you will need varying amounts of tomato slices, cheese and custard. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 cup of half and half for each egg.

When the crust is ready sprinkle the bottom with grated cheese, such as parmesan or Gruyere, and then place a layer of tomato slices on top. Sprinkle with bits of fresh basil. Repeat until you have filled the crust, allowing about half an inch at the top for the filling to expand. Combine beaten eggs with half and half, season with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomato and cheese layers. Bake at 350 degrees until the custard is set and has a few brown spots on top. Remove from the oven and cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

This is basically a quiche with tomatoes, and you can add other ingredients, such as capers, olives, toasted nuts, or bits of cooked ham or bacon, as you see fit. If your tomatoes are juicy, salt the slices lightly and allow them to drain thoroughly on paper towels before assembling the pie.

Store leftovers in the refrigerator.

Try This Summertime Combination

Ah, summertime! Among the many pleasures of the summer months is the arrival of peaches, which are just now making their debut from South Carolina. Local peaches will arrive in late July.

One of my favorite ways to enjoy fresh peaches is to grill them and then serve them with vanilla ice cream and basil syrup. Yes, basil syrup. The flavors of sweet summer herbs like basil, lemon balm, lemon verbena, mint and lavender pair beautifully with summer stone fruits.

To flavor a syrup with any fresh herb, collect a packed cup of the leaves of your herb of choice. Combine one cup of water and one cup of sugar with a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for one minute. Remove from the heat and allow to sit one minute. Stir in the herb leaves. Allow the syrup and leaves to cool to room temperature, then puree in a blender. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve and store it covered in the refrigerator.

That's all there is to it. Serve your herb syrup with any fresh fruit or a combination.

Pea Picking Time

Green Arrow makes huge pods.

Early June peas provide some good eating, even if they arrive early because of a warmer-then-usual month of May. I planted my favorite variety, Green Arrow, in the main raised garden bed last February. You may notice seed packets tell you to plant peas 2 inches deep. This is to protect them from severe cold while they decide when would be a good time to germinate. Seems they always manage to be up in time to mature by late May or early June.

Instead of installing a trellis, I plant pea seeds in a circle about one foot in diameter at the base of a large galvanized wire tomato cage. (The inverted cone type from the big-box store.) Training the plants on the cages is easy, and two such plantings will provide plenty of peas for fresh use and some to freeze.

Freshly shelled peas freeze perfectly if blanched for 3 minutes. Refresh them under cold tap water, drain well, pack into boxes or bags, label and freeze. I have not had good luck freezing either snow or snap peas, and we actually prefer the flavor of the old fashioned, English shelling peas. The extra effort to shell them is worth it.

When visiting friends in Colorado a while back, we had dinner at the Bentfork Grill in Ft. Collins. As an appetizer, we were served house-made sourdough bread, grilled, with house-made ricotta, fresh peas, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. The peas had barely been cooked, and the dish was as good as it gets. When our homegrown peas, we find the same dish just as tasty with purchased ricotta.

Another good way to use fresh peas is to make soup. Cook peas and chopped onions in chicken broth, season to taste and puree in a blender. You can add cream to the puree to make a richer soup. Either way, garnish with cooked fresh peas, and the herb of your choice. Mint and tarragon are traditional, but feel free to experiment. This soup can be served hot or cold. The puree keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a week.

Asparagus Quiche

We are almost at the end of the asparagus season in East Tennessee. Now is a good time to make asparagus quiche. It is great for a Sunday brunch, perfect for a spring picnic, and freezes perfectly, so you can take advantage of the current abundance, and enjoy the quiche later.

John’s Asparagus Quiche

                If you do not have a rectangular tart pan with removable bottom, you can make this in a 9-inch pie pan. You may need additional filling. The ratio is two tablespoons of cream for each egg.

4 servings

12 spears fresh asparagus

Crust for a 9-inch pie, homemade or store bought

Gruyere or Swiss cheese, grated, about a half cup, more if you wish

3 eggs

6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

                Break off the lower end of the asparagus spears. Trim the spears to fit the width of the tart pan, about 4 inches per piece. (If using a round pie pan, leave the spears whole.) Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, drop in the asparagus, and cook for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and refresh the asparagus under cold running water, then drain well. Transfer the asparagus to a paper towel-lined tray and blot dry. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

                Line a 5 x 14-inch rectangular tart pan with removable bottom with the pie crust. If using a purchased crust, you may need to piece it together to fit the rectangle, as most of them are round. As long as you press firmly to seal any seams, this will work fine. Scatter the cheese in the bottom of the crust, covering it evenly.

                In a medium bowl, mix the eggs and cream until thoroughly combined. Season with salt and pepper, and pour into the crust. Arrange the asparagus spears on the surface of the custard. (If using a round pan, place them like the spokes of a wheel.) Sprinkle the tarragon evenly over the top. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool for 10-15 minutes. Remove the rim from the tart pan, and cut the quiche crossways into four serving pieces. Store leftovers in the refrigerator and warm slightly before serving.

                Quiche is better warm, rather than piping hot.

Bon appetit!

Asparagus Season

The first asparagus spears always seem to appear around Tax Day here in the Valley. This year has been no exception, and we are harvesting some top quality spears on a daily basis. Our asparagus is in a raised bed only 3 by 6 feet, and was started with 5 Jersey Giant plants about 10 years ago. Now having matured, the bed produces all the asparagus we care to eat for about 10 weeks.

Here are three of my favorite ways to prepare freshly harvested asparagus. For each recipe, I snap the spears by hand, allowing them to break at a natural point. The tough bottom ends of the stems can be used to make a delicious stock for the soup. Save up the stems from two or three pickings of asparagus, storing them in an airtight container in the refrigerator, and you will have enough for about three cups of the delicious stock.

Asparagus Milanese
Poach the asparagus in simmering salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, or until just tender. Transfer to a warmed plate, then top with a poached egg, grated parmesan, and a few sprinkles of salt and pepper.

Variation: Instead of poaching the eggs, scramble them in butter with some chopped fresh tarragon, or another fresh herb. Top each serving with a dollop of eggs and some additional fresh herb for garnish.

Pappardelle with Ricotta, Asparagus and Peas
Cut off the tips of the asparagus and cut the stalks into one-inch pieces. Drop the stalks into rapidly boiling salted water and cook for two minutes, add the tips and 1/2 cup of peas, fresh or frozen. Cook for one minute. Drain, then refresh in cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer the vegetables to a large heatproof bowl. Cook pappardelle in rapidly boiling salted water according to the package directions. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Combine the hot cooked pasta with the vegetables, and add 1/2 cup of ricotta. Stir to combine and create a creamy sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve at once on heated plates.

Variation: Feel free to add garlic, green onions, herbs or any combination to this versatile dish.

Cream of Asparagus
Prepare asparagus stock by simmering the stalk ends from about one pound of spears in one quart of water, adding half a white onion, some parsley stems and a sprig of fresh tarragon. Simmer until reduced to 3 cups, about 45 minutes to one hour. Strain, discarding the solids. Keep warm. Meanwhile, cut the tips from the spears and reserve them. Chop the remainder of the spears into bite size pieces and reserve them separately from the tips. Place a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and melt a tablespoon of butter. Add some chopped onion and saute until it is translucent. Add the chopped asparagus spears and stir briefly to coat with the butter. Add the three cups of stock and bring to a boil. Cook 1 minute, add the tips of the spears, and cook one minute longer. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of warmed heavy cream. Serve immediately, garnished with minced fresh tarragon or parsley.

Variation: Poach the asparagus tips separately in a little butter and reserve them to garnish the soup. After cooking the asparagus spears in the stock, puree the mixture in a blender before combining the puree with the cream and reheating to serving temperature.

Bon appetit!

Spring Planting

Now is the time for East Tennessee gardeners to plant cool season crops. It will soon be too late for transplanting cabbage and broccoli, so if you are growing those this year, you'd better get busy. These days, it gets hot enough in May to stop the growth of most brassicas. Your cabbage may not head up, and your broccoli may not bloom.

This is an ideal time to direct seed most leafy greens. Lettuces will take about 75 days, but many mustards, such as arugula and radishes, will be ready in about 6 weeks. Follow the instructions on the seed packages for proper sowing depth, water the seedbed every day if it doesn't rain, and expect most things to germinate within one week.

You can also direct seed beets and carrots, both of which take a little longer to germinate. Carrots can take up to three weeks. Either vegetable should be thinned to the correct spacing (see the back of the seed packet) as soon as most of the seedlings have emerged. Delay in thinning will slow growth and might even limit production. A pair of plastic tweezers is useful for thinning, if you have large hands like I do. Beets will benefit from the addition of wood ashes to their bed, which raises the pH. A cup of wood ashes is sufficient for a ten-foot row of beets. Don't put the ashes directly on the seeds. Instead, work ashes into the soil a few days before planting.

This season, I am growing some vegetables in containers as part of a photography project. If you plan on a container vegetable garden, I suggest using nothing smaller than a twelve-inch diameter pot. Five gallon buckets make good vegetable containers, too, but you will need to drill drainage holes in the bottom. Cover the holes with plastic window screen before filling the container. This keeps snails, slugs and insects from taking up residence in the pot. Remember that container vegetables need frequent watering and fertilizing in order to perform well. You can use soluble fertilizer, time-release fertilizer added to the potting mix, or a granular organic fertilizer.

If you are starting your own transplants, now is as good time to sow tomatoes indoors. Wait another couple of weeks before sowing eggplant or peppers, as these two need more heat. Most transplants will be ready about a month after germination, so plan accordingly.

Suddenly It's Spring

Although we are in for a spate of cold weather, maybe two, before we are done, heavy rains during the month of February, followed by a warm spell, has brought many of the spring bulbs into bloom, along with some ephemeral natives, such as toothwort. The quickening buds and warming temperatures have me thinking of my favorite spring tonic, kilt lettuce.

My friend, Amy Campbell, recently demonstrated how to make kilt lettuce in an appearance on Live at Five at Four, on WBIR-TV, Knoxville. This time-honored dish could not be simpler to make.

Fill a big, heatproof bowl with fresh lettuce leaves and several scallions cut into bite-size pieces. In a skillet, fry some bacon, one strip for every serving of salad. When the bacon is crisp, remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels. For two servings, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of drippings. Return the skillet to the heat and add 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. As soon as it comes to a boil, pour over the lettuce. Toss and stir the lettuce until most of it is wilted. Grind some black pepper over the salad, garnish with crumbled bacon, and serve at once.

I came up with a vegetarian version that contains less fat and calories. You can find that recipe in Appalachian Cooking.

The Starving Moon

Welcome to February, known to the Cherokee as the "Starving Moon." It was a time when stored food was running low, but the spring greens and awakening wildlife had yet to appear. No doubt, it was a time when the most vulnerable often died.

We are fortunate to have any and all foods available to us year round, from fresh asparagus in January to strawberries for Christmas. This is a recent phenomenon. Supermarkets did not begin to appear everywhere until after World War II. I can recall my mother, who was born in 1926, saying that celery and oranges were special treats available only during the Christmas season.

Thus, we need only go back in time a few decades to know that pickled, dried, and otherwise preserved foods were essential to our ancestor's survival in the Appalachian region. Most famously, our hams and bacon form the flavor base for iconic Appalachian foods. Beans or greens made without cured pork have only recently come into vogue, and are definitely non-traditional.

Our ancestors made pickles out of everything from watermelon rinds to pig's feet, demonstrating that the "zero waste" food movement is, in fact, old hat around here. To this day, I stock the pantry every summer with pickles, the choice depending upon what is seasonally or locally abundant. Using them throughout the cold months brings a touch of warm weather to the table. Did you know that pickled okra can substitute for fresh in a gumbo or fry? It will have lost its thickening ability, but the characteristic flavor remains. You can make pickles out of virtually any vegetable or fruit.

Dried foods were also important to our ancestors. Apple stack cake would not be the same without dried apples for the filling. Green beans, or "leather britches," were typically strung on thread and hung on the side of a building to dry in the sun. Dried herbs not only provided flavor enhancement in the kitchen, but also were the basis of numerous home remedies.

Home canning and freezing are enjoying a resurgence. These are among the best preservation methods for a wide range of foods, provided the methods are properly carried out. Nevertheless, if you want the true experience of traditional flavors, plan on pickling or drying some of your produce during the coming season.

Next Starving Moon, you will be glad you did.

Roll It Up

You can make a great meal out of almost anything in the refrigerator and pantry when you have a package of egg roll wrappers or "skins" on hand.

Chinese take out staple egg rolls contain a mixture of protein (finely chopped or ground chicken, shrimp or pork), cabbage, mushrooms, bamboo shoots or carrots, cooked with soy sauce, garlic and ginger. When cool, the mixture is used to fill the egg roll wrappers.

You can also make Southwestern egg rolls. Combine cooked drained beans and corn kernels with peppers, onions, chili powder and garlic to make the filling. You can also include cooked chopped chicken, ground beef or ground pork. Add shredded Tex-Mex cheese blend to the cooled vegetable and protein mixture before filling the wrappers.

How about a Creole version? Combine cooked, chopped Andouille sausage (and any other protein you like) with onions, celery, and green bell peppers, seasoning with Creole seasoning, a drop or two of Worcestershire sauce, and chopped fresh tomatoes.

Vegans will like rolls made with tofu, an assortment of shredded vegetables and fresh herbs.

Regardless of the filling you select, use a mixture of 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a half cup of water to help hold the rolls together. Place a wrapper on a work surface with one corner toward you. Put 2-3 tablespoons of filling on the wrapper. Fold up the corner, then fold in the sides. Brush the top corner with the cornstarch mixture before completing the roll.

Restaurants deep-fry egg rolls, but it is healthier and less messy to bake them. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment and spray the parchment with cooking spray. Place the rolls, seam sides down, on the parchment and spray their tops with cooking spray. Alternatively, brush the parchment and the rolls with a little vegetable oil. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the tops are beginning to brown, turn them over with tongs and continue baking until golden and crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.

Cooked egg rolls freeze well. Just place in a hot oven until re-heated. If they are frozen, it takes about 15 minutes, whereas thawed ones will heat in about 5 minutes.

Gumbo

Gumbo is a method, not a specific dish. I just made turkey gumbo using leftovers from Thanksgiving. You can make a good gumbo out of almost anything, if you keep a few basic principles in mind.

First, you will need some Cajun seasoning. This is a combination of paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, salt and pepper, along with other herbs as the cook deems suitable. Dried thyme and oregano most often turn up in seasoning mixes. You will also need bay leaves.

The second component of a good gumbo is the combination of aromatic vegetables that has come to be named "trinity" by many cooks. It consists of roughly equal parts of chopped onions, celery and green bell peppers.

Fresh garlic is almost always included in gumbo, too, along with tomatoes. In winter, canned tomatoes are fine. You also need stock, ideally one that matches the main protein in your gumbo, i.e., chicken stock for chicken gumbo, pork stock for pork gumbo, etc.

Assemble those components first, then heat some fat in a large kettle or Dutch oven over medium low heat. Brown any raw meat or sausages that you intend to include. Cooked meats and seafood, if you include them, are added at the end of the cooking, not the beginning. Removed the browned meat to a heatproof bowl and reserve it. Add half of the trinity to the pot and cook, stirring once or twice, until the onions are translucent. Add some seasoning mix and the rest of the trinity, and continue to cook until some of the onions are lightly browned. Add bay leaf and garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes with juices, and stir well, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Add more seasoning mix, then cook gently until most of the liquid has evaporated.

Add stock to the pan and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Add the browned meat and any other protein. Simmer long enough to cook shrimp or any other seafood you have added. Add a dash of Worcestershire sauce, and serve the gumbo hot with rice. Garnish with chopped parsley or green onions if you wish. Pass hot sauce.

You will note that this method does not involve thickening the soup. If you like it thicker, you can add fresh or thawed frozen raw okra, or use a roux. Add the thickening ingredient after the stock simmers, stirring well until the soup is smooth and bubbling. Then add seafood or other proteins.

Once you have mastered this technique, you can create a gumbo any time you like, using seasonally fresh ingredients.

Summer Squash

There's an old joke about living in a town so small that, if you leave your car unlocked at the shopping center lot, somebody will put a bag of summer squash in the back seat. Anyone who has ever grown yellow crookneck, zucchini, or any of several other variations on summer squash likely has also been overwhelmed by the productivity of these plants. To help relieve the glut, here are some ideas for preparing summer squash.

For many of us in the Southern Appalachian region, summer squash is prepared only two ways, battered and fried, or in squash casserole. But there are plenty of other ways to enjoy squash.

Simple Squash Salad

Choose two or three small, perfect summer squashes. Wash and slice into rounds. Sprinkle with a little sea salt. Leave to sit on the counter for 30 minutes. Top with a little freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy as a salad. You can also add fresh herbs, if you prefer. The salt draws out some of the moisture from the squash, creating a "dressing" for the salad.

Squash Pickles

You can use firm summer squash to make pickles with most recipes that call for cucumbers. Do not use squash with well-developed seeds.

Stuffed Squash

Slice a summer squash lengthwise. Scoop out the flesh with a spoon, leaving a 1/4-inch shell. Chop the flesh and reserve it. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a skillet and add some chopped onion. When it is softened, add the squash flesh, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are tender. Combine the cooked vegetables in a bowl with bread crumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and minced fresh parsley. Stuff the squash shells with this filling, pour any oil remaining from cooking the vegetables over the top, and place in a preheated 375-degree oven until the stuffing browns nicely and the squash is tender, about 20 to 30 minutes.

The squash is delicious served as shown in the photo, with white beans, pesto and a garnish of fresh tomatoes.

Ratatouille

This classic French vegetable stew combines all of the best summer vegetables into one delicious dish. Cut into bite size pieces onions, summer squash, eggplant, and sweet peppers. Use a variety of types and colors. Saute each vegetable separately in olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper, and removing each batch from the pan with a slotted spoon before adding the next one. Place the cooked vegetables on a plate to keep warm. While the vegetables are cooking, peel, seed and dice two medium tomatoes to yield about a cup of dice. When the last batch of vegetables is finished, add a minced clove of garlic and the tomatoes to the pan, increase the heat, and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes break down to create a sauce. Add the vegetables back to the tomato sauce, toss to combine, and remove from the heat. Garnish with a generous portion of chopped fresh herbs. Ratatouille is better when made ahead and reheated the next day.

Cucumber Buttermilk Soup

I created this recipe because I had run out of ideas for the abundant harvest of cucumbers we currently enjoy. It is based on a classic cream of cucumber soup, but with far less fat. The acid tang of the buttermilk is enhanced by a touch of cider vinegar. Country flavors come together to re-imagine a classic!

Cucumber Buttermilk Soup

Makes 2 servings, easily multiplied

1 teaspoon canola oil
3 medium cucumbers, seeded and diced, about 2 cups
1/3 cup diced Vidalia onion, or other sweet onion
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 cup buttermilk, or more, if needed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill leaves
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
dash of hot sauce
Salt and pepper

In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, cover, turn the heat to low, and cook gently until the onion is translucent. Uncover, add the cucumbers, and cook, stirring once or twice, for a minute or two. Add the chicken broth and the garlic powder, increase the heat, and simmer the soup, covered, for 5 minutes. Transfer the soup to a blender jar and allow to cool for 15-20 minutes. Add the buttermilk, cold from the refrigerator, to the blender, along with the dill. Puree the soup. If you wish, strain the soup. Transfer the soup to a metal bowl, add the vinegar and hot sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the bowl in the refrigerator to chill.

Before serving the soup, taste and correct the seasoning. Garnish with diced cucumber, some dill leaves and/or freshly picked cucumber flowers.

Variations: Use another herb  instead of the dill. Try a different type of vinegar or lemon juice for a flavor change.