Knoxville Food Scene

As 2019 draws to a close, I have been reflecting on some of the dining-out experiences we enjoyed during the past year. Knoxville has a great food scene that seems to be getting better all the time.

Emilia, Chef Matt Gallagher's Italian bistro on Market Square, appears to be in something of a rut. Perhaps this is because Chef Matt has been pre-occupied with opening the new, larger incarnation of Knox Mason. The much-anticipated venue is located inside Hyatt Place, the old Farragut Hotel to long time residents. We are looking forward to a visit in the New Year. Meanwhile, the menu at Emilia has not changed perceptibly in months and months, although the place was packed when we visited on a Friday evening. My fusilli carbonara was uninspiring, but the meatballs on polenta were delicious. Even the simple grilled focaccia with ricotta and Georgia olive oil was not as good as I had remembered. The menu definitely needs some revisions.

Rebel Kitchen, on the other hand, has our vote for downtown's best upscale dining. Chef Preston Williams combines creativity and the best local and regional ingredients. A small plate of grilled sea scallops has by now disappeared from the menu. We can all hope it returns soon, as the scallops were perfectly cooked and deliciously sauced. The signature "striploin" of beef was superbly flavorful and also perfectly cooked. Our waiter was especially helpful in choosing a wine from the extensive selection. Rebel Kitchen is located next door to the Old City Wine Bar on Jackson Avenue. Small plates served in the wine bar are prepared by Chef Williams.

Chef Joseph Lenn's locally focused JC Holdway continues to delight us, even though the portions were so generous as to be unwieldy. We will remember next time to share the Sunburst Farms trout. It arrived as the whole grilled fish, with grit-crusted potatoes. Having just enjoyed the small plate of charred shrimp on Anson Mill grits with seafood emulsion and pickled tomatoes, the fish was almost more than one could manage. Most dishes are cooked on the wood-fired grill. Freshly baked cornbread comes in its own cast iron skillet.

New restaurants are opening in downtown, the Old City, and along the Central Avenue corridor. We look forward to reviewing them in the coming year.

Dessert of Christmas Past

Nostalgia always seems fashionable at Christmastime. Here is a dessert that I first had in the 1950s. It was a specialty of my Aunt Juanita Tullock. She often made it for us to enjoy after dinner on Christmas Eve. Simple, light, and delicious, this dish would make a fine ending for any holiday meal. Because chilling is required, it can be done hours in advance, ideal when you are having guests and a million things to do to get ready.

The key to success lies in the double boiler technique. You want the bowl with the eggs sitting over, but not in, simmering water. If the water touches the bottom of the bowl, the eggs will curdle before the custard thickens. Apart from that, the recipe is foolproof. It can also be doubled successfully, if you have a crowd.

Aunt Juanita's Fluffy Boiled Custard

4 servings

6 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 tablespoons whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In the top of a double boiler or other suitable heatproof bowl, beat the egg yolks. Add the sugar and milk and mix well to combine. Place the egg mixture over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla extract, and allow to cool for 10 minutes. While the custard cools, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the custard. Refrigerate until chilled, and serve cold.