I have now lived in Knoxville full time for 50 years. The changes have been many, and I think mostly positive. Anyone who remembers how downtown looked in the 70s will likely be thrilled with how exciting and vibrant it now is. Visiting downtown from out in the 'burbs is a genuine pleasure. At one time, you could count the restaurant choices on one hand. Now, there are many, from fast food to fine dining. We have tried more than a dozen of them, and only two were truly disappointing. These were Clancy's, located in the Burwell Building, and Kabuki, the pan-Asian place on Market Square. Interesting that kabuki is Japanese shadow theatre, as this place is but a shadow of genuine Asian cuisine. Almost any other choice will be more satisfying. Clancy's claims to be a "genuine" Irish pub, but the soggy fried whitefish and greasy, flaccid "chips" betray this assertion. They should have stuck to making eyeglasses.
The rest, especially in the mid-price range ($20/person), are good but surprisingly similar in their menu offerings. We looked around last evening and found lots of burgers and sandwiches, of course, but also numerous offerings of shrimp and grits, Cajun/Creole chicken pasta, and wings, wings, wings. Apparently every chef in town thinks they have to serve fried green tomatoes. These include Blue Coast Grill, Stock and Barrel, Blackhorse Pub, and Not Watson's.
Soccer Taco, Chivo, and Babalu all offer good takes on Latin American cuisine. Each has its high points.
Café Four is a ten for location. The outdoor tables are shaded by mature trees on the Square. A good place to take out-of-town guests. The menu is simple, good, and reasonably priced.
No mention of Market Square dining would be complete without including the Tomato Head, which has been there for decades and is still thriving. Try the pizza if it is your first visit.
Sushi, thank God, seems on the way out. Kaizen, the Japanese restaurant on Clinch Ave., does not even offer it. You won't miss it, either. Use the money you save on raw tuna to sample one of the many fine sake offerings at this location.
If you are looking for truly creative cooking, it is necessary to go to a more upscale venue. The two best ones are Knox Mason and JC Holdway. Emilia offers classic Italian for those so inclined. Have the focaccia appetizer. You won't regret it.
Oliver Royale and Tupelo Honey are upscale in price, but mid-tier in food quality. TH can sometimes be too over-the-top, and OR is for snobs who want only trendy foods mentioned in Garden and Gun, but won't pay enough to get the really good quality ingredients. Best offering in the house is Blackberry Farm Saison on draft. Otherwise, meh.
I have not included the numerous watering holes that offer some kind of food. Many house specialties are good, for example, the fried bologna sandwich at Suttree's. Nor have I included venues in the Old City or near downtown on Central Avenue. Those will form the subject of another post.
In the meantime, "Bon appetit!"
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