Mushroom Season

The cool, damp weather of autumn typically brings on the appearance of numerous varieties of wild mushrooms in the southern Appalachians. One tree on the University of Tennessee campus, for example, provides a flush of oyster mushrooms in time for Christmas dinner, almost like clockwork. In the rich forests that cloak our mountains, numerous other wild varieties appear, including the apricot-scented chanterelles, and fat, shiny porcini, along with several lesser-know ones. One should never harvest or consume wild mushrooms without being absolutely certain of their identity. If you forage, do so in the company of an experienced forager. Or purchase foraged mushrooms at your farmer's market.

Grocers tend to stock more exotic mushrooms this time of year, not only because many wild species are in season, but also because consumers are more willing to splurge on food purchases during the holidays. Chanterelles, for example, can command $40 per pound, or more. Fortunately, you only need a small amount, 2 or 3 ounces, to create a stunning dish. Chanterelles go beautifully with seafood and cream. Porcini, "little pigs" in Italian, are marvelous in stews and rich, dark gravies.

If you want to lessen the strain on the budget, opt for cultivated mushrooms. If you search around a bit, you may be surprised at how many you can find. Besides white button, crimini and Portobello, all of which are actually the same species of fungus, you are likely to encounter oyster, shiitake, king oyster, beech, enoki, maitaki, and several others. The color of the mushroom can be a guide to using it in the kitchen. Brown mushrooms, such as crimini and shiitake, work well in rich dishes with red meats, while white ones, such as buttons, enoki and common oysters, go better with chicken, seafood and vegetable dishes.

Absent the availability of fresh mushrooms, go with dried ones. Many varieties are available, and they are all handled in the same way. Place the dried mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and cover them with an inch or so of boiling-hot water. Allow to stand at room temperature until the water cools to warm, then remove the mushrooms, squeezing any excess liquid back into the bowl, and cut off any tough, woody portions. Discard these, but keep the soaking water, after straining it through a fine sieve to remove any grit. Proceed with your recipe as if using fresh mushrooms, and use the soaking water in the sauce, as if it were stock.

Basic Mushroom Soup
Nothing in this recipe is set in stone. Feel free to make changes, based on the ingredients available to you. If using dried mushrooms, measure after soaking and chopping.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 cup chopped onions (scallions, leeks, shallots, etc.)
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped mushrooms, any variety or a mixture
3 cups vegetable or meat stock, including soaking water, if using
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1/4 cup heavy cream or whole milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh parsley (or other herb), for garnish

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot and add the onions, celery and mushrooms. Cover, lower the heat and sweat the vegetables until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the liquid(s) and thyme sprigs, adjusting the heat to maintain a slow simmer. Cook the soup for 30 minutes, then add the milk or cream. Do not allow the soup to boil, but keep it hot. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve, garnished with a few sprinkles of parsley.